Hello All,
I enjoyed the recent discussion on upper entrances for colonies.  I totally
agree with the need for upper entrances, especially for good wintering. I
have always notched inner covers (notch side down in winter) but felt I
could do more and year round.   A couple of times I thought about drilling
holes in all of my supers and then somehow plugging them for storage or when
not in use.  I did drill a few hive bodies over the years, and the bees
seemed to appreciate them, but I never really liked permanently altering the
box.  I bought, and have also made, a number of Imire Shims.  They work
great and last summer I had my highest ever single colony honey yield from a
colony that had three shims on.  The only drawback with the shim is the need
for extra pieces of equipment and in a really good flow the bees will draw
some burr comb in the 3/4 inch space which leads to a mess during harvest.
(I know George, if I put enough supers on it won't usually happen.)  But
sometimes one colony out paces all the others and end up using the space.

One of the best ideas to date is one I got from Lloyd Spear.  I hope he
doesn't mind my sharing it.  Cut wood roofing shingles into 3/4 inch strips
and attach them to the "bee side" of the inner cover.  This gives about a
3/8 inch opening along the top front edge.  They may draw a little burr comb
but it usually does not amount to much.  While some colonies do not use it
for a top entrance, I see them using it for ventilation all summer.  I am
also convinced it allows for better ventilation in winter for moisture
removal.

I have never been convinced that if bees were designing the hive we give
them, they would have the entrance at the bottom.  It works great for the
beekeepers and the bees adapt.  I am intrigued by the new entrance design
that has been advertised in the magazines.  All the discussion got me
thinking.  What if I take the same shingle wedges I use on the inner cover
and fasten them to the top of a queen excluder?  It gives an entrance above
the excluder, provides some additional ventilation, does not trap drones who
can still use the bottom entrance.  When the supers and excluder comes off
there is no extra pieces of equipment to handle.  Quite frankly, I don't
know how this will work, and unfortunately most of my queen excluders are
metal bound.  But I do have a few wood bound, so I will experiment with
them.  If anyone else would like to try this idea, I would appreciate if
they would let me know if it worked.  As with any new idea, I won't try it
on all my colonies, but a few in each yard.  If I like the results I will
continue, if not, oh well.

Take care all.

Ron Bogansky
Kutztown, (eastern) PA, USA


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