Hello Yoon, Randy & All,

> Yoon asked:
>
>>  "What is the optimum number of frames one can give to a split
>> in spring?"

Really depends on your goals. Chasing a honey crop can be troublesome in the 
Midwest.  An old saying and one spoke often of by Michal palmer is one needs 
to choose between splits and a honey crop. The reason Michael makes fall 
splits. Brother Adam came to the same conclusion.

Make up late and let the split grow at a slow pace after cold weather is 
past and nectar and pollen coming in..

Those selling package bees say they will likely make a honey crop the first 
year. I say maybe if you want to run in a single and add the second box 
after the flow.  Not usually when the flow is early ( and ends early) and 
the package is placed on foundation and not fed heavily.

Sucrose figures today at approx. three fifty a gallon. HFCS a buck cheaper. 
Feeding and trips to feed are getting expensive(fuel)  without even figuring 
the labor.

My method  if the hive is not used for main honey flow to pull 2 brood and 
nurse bee frames from a strong hive building for the flow by moving the 
frames above a queen excluder less bees and let the nurse bees come up and 
cover. No worry about losing a queen and only removing young bees ( better 
queen acceptance) .

After placing in the single deep brood box  with *at least* a full frame of 
pollen and honey I *double check to make sure the donor hive queen is not in 
the new hive.  When done in warm weather I eliminate the five frame nuc and 
use a single with a reduced entrance. Saves labor and because on pallets I 
simply move into a holding yard.

 Important:
I mark a number on the new hive which corresponds with the donor hive. If I 
find the queen from the donor hive not a problem as I can return her or 
simply drop a new queen in the donor hive. I have used the system for 
decades.


Do this as the main flow starts. Forget about the hive after the queen is 
accepted. I always add plenty of honey and pollen.

After the main flow is over the bees are strong in a single. ( 4-6 weeks) 
Then add a second box and feed for winter.

When I evaluate each new hive at flows end all dink queens get a hive tool 
and their box is used as a second box for a better hive.

Many queens not pass my grading process.


The above was also recommended by George Imirie in his "Pink Pages" with the 
exception of heavy feeding if placed on foundation. I like to replace the 
feeding by starting later and using a honey flow.
My plan will also work using 4 frames drawn and the rest foundation but the 
growth is slower but less chance of a swarm if using Italian bees ( my 
preference).

You get better queens from most queen producers in the second or third round 
of queen rearing in my opinion. Early queens are poorly mated * at times* 
and cold weather in early spring can be hard on a 2 frame start.

I use the same formula as Randy when trying to make a honey crop off the 
start in the same year ( which I have spoke about in detail before and in 
the archives).

bob

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