I'm partial to single part plastic resin glues like "Gorilla Glue."
They require a damp surface to actually set up. They foam just a bit so
they will fill any voids. Once set, they are waterproof. I'm not aware
that anything eats them. I use them building canoes, for example.
The wood doesn't need to be wet, just damp, so you can wet the joint
surfaces in bulk in advance or have a second brush in a can of water handy
to quickly paint the joints one hive at a time.
I use ceramic deck screws to assemble hives which pull the joints together
tightly. Nails should be OK. I wouldn't rely on the glue joint alone.
It doesn't take much glue and it is the nature of the verathane glues to
set up in the container over time. IOW, don't buy much more than you can
use in 6 months or so, and stick to a container size that you will use
well within that time.
"Gorilla" was, I believe, the first on the market 10 years or so ago -
imported. It's still available but has competitors. While "special"
once, it's widely available now.
Otherwise, one of the Waterproof carpenters' glues will do fine. They are
half again as expensive as plain white carpenters' glue and do require a
good solid mechanical joint. They don't expand at all and can be put on
dry lumber. Once open, they have a limited shelf life too, but not as
short as Gorilla Glue.
On Fri, 22 Feb 2002, Allen Dick wrote:
> I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with special types of glues for
> use in assembling hives.
>
> I'm aware of the normal white and yellow glues that are available in every
> hardware store, but am also aware that there are specialty glues out there.
> Some are quick setting, and some are set by heat or pressure. Others are
> two-part.
---------------
Richard Yarnell, SHAMBLES WORKSHOPS | No gimmick we try, no "scientific"
Beavercreek, OR. Makers of fine | fix we attempt, will save our planet
Wooden Canoes, The Stack(R) urban | until we reduce the population. Let's
composter, Raw Honey | leave our kids a decent place to live.
|
