Ralph Harrison writes:
 
"I have sucessfully used the cone method many times. In using it some of the
tips I have are these:
 
Narrow end of cone should be 3/8 inch (bee space). Use a 3/8" bolt as a
guide..."
 
I thought I'd add just a couple of comments from my experience.  I trapped out
two colonies using the cone method this year, just finished one.  They both
worked well.  As suggested,
I left the cone on for 6 weeks.  My narrow end was a little "tighter" than the
above suggested 3/8 inch--maybe closer to 1/4 inch--just enough to let one bee
out at a time.  I also had the open tip of the cone curve upwards so that
returning bees looking for the colony entrance would come in lower and not find
the open tip to try and reenter.  I just used regular metal window screen
material and needle and thread to sew it together up along the side of the cone
so bees would not find a way in or out on the side.  I stapled the bottom edge
of the cone onto the tree (or wall of the house) with a staple gun and then
used expandable foam sealant under the edges to block any other cracks that
a bee might be able to squeeze through.  The next trick is to wait about a week
and go back and carefully observe to see if the bees have either found or made
another entrance.  In both cases, I found that they had, and were still going
in and out, although I had a substantial number of bees join my hive.  Some of
them will be very persistent because they have hungry mouths to feed inside the
tree or wall.  You then need to block the "extra entrance/secret escape route"
with screen and foam or you can't finish the job.  Finally, you need to have
the good will of the person who owns the property and have let them know what
you are doing and how long you expect it to take.  I was fortunate that the
people I worked with cared about saving the bees, so although they were
somewhat disappointed when I told them it would take a month and a half before
I could move the hive, they accepted that and were happy just to have it taken
care of.  If they "can't wait" and "have to have it done immediately" then my
response would probably be "I'm sorry I cannot help you," sorry for the bees
but glad I did not have to deal with the unreasonable people.  They always have
the alternative of "paying the big bucks" and having a licensed professional
take care of their problem for them. The final step of the procedure should
probably be to then remove the cone and block the hole with additional foam
sealand so other bees do not find the entrance and start another colony in the
same place.  The odors are very attractive to scouts from a swarm out
looking for a new home.
 
Layne Westover
College Station, Texas, USA