Dissin' the  D.E.:
 
In response to the queries lately about this hive, certain ideas should
perhaps be borne in mind:
 
The "D.E" hive design is not particularly novel, by any appearances.  This
is essentially the same as the "Modified National" hive, which is the one
most commonly used by hobbiests in Britain.  And pretty much nowhere else.
 
 
It follows the same principles as the hives usually used here (Langstroth),
but the dimensions differ somewhat (a little less volume), the and the
boxes utilize more lumber as they are slightly more complex.
 
You can go either way, but bear in mind that the raves you hear about the
DE have been from new owners, and you would likewise hear the same comments
from Langstroth-hive (or any hive!) users, when they are still nice and
*new*.  New hives are always a joy to work, as everything fits together and
comes apart with a minimum of effort.  This might not be the case after a
few years of weathering.  (Even Nationals with British Standard frames can
cause problems - the spacers are not ideal, bees can get mashed, the long
frame lugs break off, etc.)
 
It is always safer to go with standard equipment, which in North America
means Lanstroth hives.  The investment is quite a bit less, and the resale
value is high, whereas with oddball equipment you can pay much more at the
outset, and there is not apt to be a market for the same, used equipment
later.
 
Also, when it comes to buying, selling, or trading stocks, the combs and
boxes will always be Langstroth, so you will be in much better shape if
everything  is uniform.
 
I am not saying the DE hive is no good as a home for bees, but perhaps it
would make better sense if it was marketed in the UK and not North America.
It is not going to take over as the "standard hive" over here, it has no
particularly wonderful advantages over the standard one, and if you want to
minimize your investment and headaches, stick to the standard hive.
 
Bees will not make more honey in one style hive than another, at least if
they are as similar as the DE and Langstroth.  It is the bee and proper
management (and n o t  the style hive which leads to the maximum honey
crop).  Claims that some gadget will increase honey production should be
held suspect.  If you don't mind spending the money you can give them a
try, but any apparent increase (or decrease) in honey production one could
attribute to any of a number of factors, not the least of which would be
genetics and management of the colony.
 
About the only useful aspect of the DE that the standard hive doesn't have
is the plinths across the box, which act as hand-holds.  They provide a
much firmer grip than the handhold "cutouts" in the Langstroth boxes.
However, the standard boxes can be easily improved just by nailing a strip
of wood 3/4" thick x 2" wide across the front and back of each box.  This
is commonly what commercial beekeepers do, and it facilitates lifting and
moving a great deal.
 
There is no mad rush on the part of beekeepers to get the "special"
ventilation-boxes on their hives - I don't see how this gadget can be
hailed as such a great innovation.  There is even one on the market now
that uses a SOLAR PANEL on the roof to open and close the vents.  (O-kay...
is the jury in on that one?) Years ago there was a common practice of
drilling a 1" hole in the front of every box, but this really isn't
necessary or worth the trouble.
 
The bees are quite capable of providing whatever air flow they need through
the hive.  To assist in this, many beekeepers (yours truly included)
"stagger" the supers during the height of the honey season.   Or, simply
jacking up the outer cover with sticks laid on the inner cover will allow
the stale moist air to escape out under the lid, summer or winter.
 
It would seem that any type of supplemental ventilation helps the bees in
ridding the hive of all the moisture as they evaporate down the nectar.
However, even without the "extra" ventilation they manage amazingly well.
E.g., I work with a regional commercial beekeeper (650 col.), harvesting
the crop across a wide area in upstate NY.  Some of this season's
biggest-yielding hives - 6-8 supers of honey - had no such "extra"
ventilation.  In fact, large number only had 3/8" x 3" entrances at the
bottom, period (the winter entrance-blocks were still in place)!   They
certainly didn't seem to be any worse off for it, and colonies at the same
sites with more ventilation certainly did no better.
 
Probably no hive design is ideal in every respect, but in the long run
there are many decided advantages to standard equipment.  Personally, I
would tend toward a nail- or staple spaced brood frame of Quinby (Dadant)
depth (11 1/4") in a single brood box, like Br. Adam preferred, and Manley
extracting frames above, for the "best" hive, but in this part of the world
they would be completely oddball.
 
Comments, corrections solicited...
 
Joel Govostes
Freeville, NY