Leigh Wiley wrote:
>
> My experience with masonite for inner covers is that it tends to bow
> downward if you use top feeders. I don't like using masonite
> personnally.
> BE>I plan to mke my own hives.
>
> BE>1. Does anyone have any thoughts on the use of Masonite for the Inner cover
> BE>and the hive top (tin clad).
>
> BE>2. Any problems with the use of treated timber for hive boxes?
 
I would agree with the Leigh's comments on the original question by John
Lewis.  After the masonite bows downward it constricts the bee space,
becomes heavily propolized to the top bars and upon opening the hive the
masonite itself comes apart and sticks to the top bars in large flat
plates.  This material should never have been used for this purpose.
 
What material is better?  I have utilized OSB (oriented strand board)
used as construction flooring and wall sheeting.  This material has the
annoying characteristic of flaking off as long wooden chips (even though
it remains flat, unlike masonite) when scraped with the hive tool.
Plywood does this too, although not as often and usually with much
smaller chips.  Thin boards set in a frame really are the best material
for inner covers, in my opinion.  Even they have a bad fault, however:
when the covers age their frames tend to loosen up and the boards then
come apart.  I guess my covers ought to be replaced more often!
 
On the subject of treated timber:  I would not use this in any part of
the hive that comes in contact with bees.  However, it is great as a
base for bottom boards.  For some time now I have built my bottom
boards  upon two treated 2x4's 24 inches long.  I usually set my hives
upon a stand, but in an emergency hives on these bottom boards can sit
right upon the ground even throughout the entire summer.  Obviously,
such bottom boards cannot be reversible, so I make them with the narrow
depth opening (about 3/8 inch high).
 
Ted Fischer
Dexter, Michigan USA