In a message dated 97-02-06 14:18:12 EST, [log in to unmask] (aarcher) writes:
 
<< What is an appropriate method of cleaning up the hive bodies and supers
 insuring that I don't spread disease to my new package bees?  Since we are
 limited in re$ources here and about 2 hours from the nearest village,
 chemicals (which I'm not too fond of anyway) are not easy to find and
 acquire.  I live in a riparian area on the Gila river and am cautious of
 any unnatural residues which chemicals can leave behind.  I've heard fire
 can be used effectively to remove most disease problems, but is there a
 specific way to use fire reasonably.  e.g.- Can I hold and rotate the
 equipment over an open flame to sterilize?  Is there a minimum time or
 minimum heat requirement to do the job?  What about using solar heating in
 or under plastic sheeting?  Would temperatures reach a high enough level?
 How long would be required to do the job thouroughly? >>
 
    If the equipment was known to not have American foulbrood, I'd just use
it. Be sure to use a couple preventative treatments of terramycin each year,
and watch for any problems with AFB.
 
    If you know it did, or if you aren't sure, fire is a good idea.  Solar
heat would not kill foulbrood spores.
 
   You might keep in mind that fouldbrood spores are everywhere, and bees
normally resist the infection, unless they are genetically weak, or there is
an overwhelming source of infection.  The unwashed jar of honey tossed into
the dumpster has plenty of spores.  Your efforts to sanitize are used to
reduce the exposure.  You cannot remove every spore.
 
    Commercial beekeepers have a quick and simple way to char supers.  Get a
round pointed shovel and a flat workspace away from anything that could catch
fire, such as a concrete or asphalt pad.  Scrape or knock off any propolis or
burr comb that is obvious.  Stack up the supers no higher than you can reach,
and put a flat piece of disposable plywood over the top, except leave a tiny
crack.  You have created a chimney.  Have some water buckets or a fire
extinguisher handy by, just in case.
 
   Now drop a paper towel, soaked with gas down your chimney, and follow with
a lighted match.  Be careful!      If you are looking down when it ignites,
you won't have any eyebrows, or worse.
 
   Take the shovel tip and wedge it under the bottom super corner.  You can
lift it up slightly to let in air, and really get the fire going. Set it down
and the fire dies back. (With the shovel) move the top carefully back to
close off the top, and the fire will go out.
 
   It's easy and quick.  You can use the shovel created draft to burn them
just enough to char off the wax and propolis from the interior, but not burn
through the boxes.
 
   If they fall, or you accidently knock off the cover, you'll have wood
igniting, and you'll probably burn through some boxes, so a little finesse is
required, but it's not hard.
 
   The slow way, more expensive, and just as risky, is to use a propane torch
to clean them up.  You'll have to scorch all inner surfaces. This is outdoor
activity.  Don't try this in your garage or warehouse.
 
[log in to unmask]    Dave Green,  PO Box 1200,  Hemingway,  SC
29554        (Dave & Jan's Pollination Service,  Pot o'Gold Honey Co.)
 
Practical Pollination Home Page            Dave & Janice Green
http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html
 
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