REGARDING           RE>trapping pollen!
 
Mark Spagnolo write:
>Here in Hawaii there is a big demand for pollen.  I have 25 hives and
>a pollen trap (of different types) for each hive.  I also have a
>pollen cleaning apparatus.
>Does anyone have any hints or tips on collecting pollen?  Anything
>would be appreciated.  I have strong colonies with new queens and
>tight equipment.  I have never attempted to trap pollen before, so
>any information will be appreciated.
 
I used to collect a lot of pollen a few years ago, for there is a good market
here in Michigan for pollen as well.  I always sold as much as I could
collect in a summer (about 300lbs from 25 colonies.)
 
Tight equipment is very important, especially the pollen traps.  It is *very*
unpleasant if bees can get down into the pollen drawers.  They are usually in
a foul mood by the time they are released.
 
I assume that you have a relatively humid climate in Hawaii.  We do in
Michigan, and because of that, the pollen *had* to be collected every day, or
yeasts would multiply and start to ferment the pollen.  Even then, the pollen
trays had to be exchanged every week or two and disinfected from yeast spores
by heating in an oven.
 
Another problem I had was small insects (ants and sap beetles, mainly)
getting into the pollen trays.  My pollen cleaner blew out the small ants,
but the sap beetles weighed about the same as the pollen grains, and I had to
pick them out by hand.  Another contaminant is chalkbrood mummies; they also
won't get blown out by the pollen cleaner, and must be picked out by hand.
Maybe someone on the list has a good idea about how to deal with this
cleaning problem: it was one of the reasons I got out of pollen collecting.
 
Pollen can be stored either dried or frozen.  It was easier for me to freeze
it, and my customers preferred it that way as well (the pellets were softer
and easier to eat).  I sold it in small zip-lock bags, by quarter, half and
pound sizes.
 
Good luck.
 
Ted Fischer