To all unlucky swarmchasers,
                                           Much discussion recently on the
problems of swarming.  There is clearly much confusion amongst beginners.
As one who has checked for swarms over many years may I be permitted a few
observations based on everyday experience.
Firstly swarming is the bees' method of procreation.  This is the most
important urge in every life form that wishes to continue living on this
planet.  Honeybees chose this method millions of years ago and although we
have been trying to domesticate them for the past 5000 years they carry on
in their own sweet way  and we must accept it.
Books generalise on swarming.  You read that young queens are less likely to
swarm.  That is true but some young queens will swarm so you can never be
sure.  Congestion causes swarming.  Partly true but if the bees are intent
on swarming all the efforts of the beekeeper to open up the broodchamber,
shift brood, give foundation and supers, etc., will not stop them.  Swarms
go as soon as the queen cells are capped.  Usually true but hot weather will
drive them out early before capping and wet or cold weather may delay them
for several days.
The thread recently about looking for eggs to determine whether the bees
have or have not swarmed is a strange one.  The presence or absence of eggs
has little meaning as bees will swarm leaving open larvae and eggs or open
larvae and no eggs or no open larvae and no eggs.  The only true indication
lies in the queen cells present and they are obvious to anyone.  No queen
cells, no swarming.  Open queen cells with larvae, swarming on its way.
Capped queen cells, bees have gone or are about to go.  Open mature  queen
cells with some torn down, the swarm has gone, leaving a virgin who has gone
round destroying her rivals.
The reason for little open brood is because for several days the bees have
forced the queen to reduce egg laying in order to slim down and be
physically fit for flying.  This condition will vary from stock to stock.
The decision to swarm takes place at least a fortnight before the swarm
leaves.  The bees have to manufacture queen cups and persuade the queen to
lay in them.  This is not done in one day so the beekeeper will find larvae
at different stages of development.  It takes around ten days from when the
egg is laid to when the cell is capped and the bees are ready to go.  During
this time the queen's egg laying drops off and the bees hang around the hive
appearing less willing to work.  Is the choice of who is to go and who to
remain a chance thing or is it regulated?  Only the bees know that one.  We
do know that the division is variable, but approximately half the bees go, a
mixture of nurse bees, wax makers and foragers, even drones although they
are not needed at this stage.
If the swarm gets away, the chance of a honey crop is negligible, at least
in my part of the world.  I have a short season, May, June and early July.
By the time the stock is up to strength the flows are nearly over.  If the
swarm is taken it goes back to whence it came, to keep the stock at full
strength.  If the swarm is hived separately it may give a surplus in the
first few weeks but it will steadily dwindle away for the first five weeks.
It is well known that the stronger the stock the greater the honey yield per
bee and one strong stock will produce more surplus than three weak ones.
For me the art of beekeeping lies in maintaining the stock at maximum
strength for the duration of the nectar flows.  May is usually the best
month but this year May is colder than April and the bees are still living
on their stores.  Fields of rape and fruit blossom everywhere and it is too
cold for the bees to fly.
The one and only way to prevent swarming is to have a rigorous routine check
of the brood combs every seven or eight days.  I say rigorous because the
main fault with beginners is that they are not careful enough.  Some cells
are well hidden and you only have to miss one and the swarm is away.  If you
miss a three day old egg in a queen cup (very easily done) the bees might be
away before the next check.  Combs must be shaken or brushed clear of bees.
If you intend using the cells for increase you must brush, not shake.
The advice to cut out all cells might well be followed the first time round
if things have caught you unprepared.  However, repeated cutting out is
useless.  The queen will be laying few eggs when you want a lot and the bees
will be working half-heartedly.  I must admit to being puzzled about the
advice to split.  Is it because nectar flows in America are longer and
richer than here?  If I split a colony to prevent swarming by the time they
had built up to strength the season would be over.
Over the years many beekeepers have gone into print with their method of
swarm control.  I use a variation of a system first put forward by George
Demaree, a respected American beekeeper, in 1884.  Now 112 years old, I
think it is still the best.  Full details will be found in any good bee book.
An afterthought.  Is it swarming or supersedure?  If the stock is a poor one
and there are a few cells at the same level of development, it is
supersedure.  If the stock is strong and thriving why should the bees want
to supersede?
S H P
_________________________________________________________________
Sid Pullinger                    Email :  [log in to unmask]
36, Grange Rd                Compuserve:  [log in to unmask]
Alresford
Hants SO24 9HF
England