W. Allen Dick, Beekeeper ARS VE6CFK
Rural Route One, Swalwell, Alberta Canada T0M 1Y0
Phone/Fax: 403 546 2588 Email: [log in to unmask]
On Wed, 5 Oct 1994, Jean-Pierre Chapleau wrote:
> On Sept. 28 Allen Dick wrote:
>
> <Perhaps we could discuss incubation temperatures at some later time. My
> <measurements don't agree with the published numbers. The books refer to
> <92F. I measure 95.5F +/- 0.5F. I've heard rumors that some breeders
> <adjust hatching time by controlling temperature. True? False?
>
> Hatching of the cells could be retarded by controlling the temperature of the
> incubator. I have retarded cells for as long as 4 days and still most of them
> hatch. Nevertheless this is not a recommandable practice. The longer the cel
ls
> are retarded, the lower the acceptance in the colonies you introduce them to.
> Even celll introduced on the 12th day after grafting give significantly worst
> results than cell introduced on the 11th. The schedule I prefer is the
> following: graft on day 0 from 12 h larvae, pull the cells from the cell
> builders on day 10 ans keep them in an incubator overnight at 85-87 degrees
Why 85-87 degrees rather than hive temperature, 92-95? To slow them down?
> Fahrenheit, introduce them in the colonies on day 11. You can pull them and
> introduce them on day 10 also but the cells are a little more fragile then and
> more suceptible to be affected by the cold or heat and by shocks.
I'm curious at what stages the temperature is most critical. I've talked
to the local chicken hatchery (I bought an incubator from them that we use
to hold cells once capped). They say for chickens a half degree will have
a big effect on hatch time and viability.
We have had problems toting cells to out yards, even with an incubator.
Heat has been a problem as often as chilling. I've decided that a nuc is the
only reliable answer. What do you use?
We often only use a cell or two in a yard, and have other work to do
there, so wind up carrying queen cells around all day.
Just looking at emerging virgins, it appears to me that those which have
been held at the lower end of the acceptable temperature range do not
have as much obvious vigour - initially anyhow.
By the way, we put the cells into protectors (JayZee BeeZee as soon as
capped if we are handling them, and often hold them in an incubator all
week til insertion time. The protectors provide for errant queens in the
holding hive or incubator and also later help us to rudely stick a cell into
hives that have not been prepared to accept them.
Another beekeeper has settled on '3 day cells' for his splits. He says
they travel well at that stage. I am reluctant to have hives queenless
as long as that implies, though.
I don't know if you've addressed any more responses to me lately, but our
Interent connection is really flaky lately, and could be for a little
longer. I should get the latest log from the listserv and see if I've
missed much.
If you are on Compu$erve, you might find my post under 'Logs on disk' useful.
Cheers
Allen
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