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Date: | Wed, 3 Feb 2021 18:10:49 -0500 |
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>True, it is somewhat easier to pull the first frame with 9 but by pulling
> one of the outside frames first and then separating as you go in I have no
> problem. Few beeks are careful to maintain even spacing in their 9 frame
> boxes resulting in frames of varying width making changing frame location
> difficult.
I initially switched to 9-frame brood boxes for the ease of pulling the first frame during inspections. It also allowed me to dive right in the middle if I want to. I put in 9-frame spacers to maintain exact frame spacing which organizes things. I never got completely through a total 9-frame conversation and now I wish I never started. With a combination of 10-frame and 9-frame deeps, things get complicated. One can work around the different spacing but the real problems are with making up nucs. Nine-frame, frames just don't fit into a five frame nuc box because the honey shoulders around the top bars are drawn too deep. Things get squished and bees can get rolled.
I ended up trying to solve the issue by using four frames in a five frame nuc box plus a follower board, and that's OK but bees will bridge between the frame and the follower, and the honey shoulders are still a problem.
The opposite is true with my production honey supers - they are all 9-frame which seems to work much better for uncapping.
Bill Hesbach
Cheshire CT
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