>This multiplied by the height and length of the hive and by the number of frames gives an addition of 162 cubic inches.
I question this. I am one of the old timers Allen speaks of and realize that we have discussed 9 vs 10 plenty of times. I too have used both and for the past couple of decades settled on 10. There are successful beekeepers in both camps so it is obvious that there is no "right" way.
My observation with 9 is contrary to the argument that it provides more space for bees to cluster, reducing overcrowding. What I see is the bees simply pull out deeper cells and maintain the same "bee space". They also have 11% fewer cells to raise brood and store supplies theoretically increasing swarm pressure. True, it is somewhat easier to pull the first frame with 9 but by pulling one of the outside frames first and then separating as you go in I have no problem. Few beeks are careful to maintain even spacing in their 9 frame boxes resulting in frames of varying width making changing frame location difficult. With 10 every frame is close to the same and they are interchangeable throughout the operation.
Like I said there are good arguments on both sides and most of us old farts have made up our minds but I have a bit of advise for any newer beeks in doubt. It is vary much easier to convert a 10 frame to 9 than the other way around. Crushing those thick frames is a mess and trimming them laborious. The usual caveats. When pulling foundation start with 10. In honey suppers use 9 or 8 for much easier uncapping.
Paul Hosticka
Dayton WA
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