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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
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From:
Etienne Tardif <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Tue, 28 Jan 2020 10:44:14 -0500
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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
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Gene
Here is the link again - https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pzX7tQHyXCkmIQhl8N_ekfM3r0Qa8f-9
To the drive itself - Look for the Sensor DB Graphs Broodrearing.xls

I should have mentioned in my previous post that by placing the sensor in that mid location I typically get a pretty good view of the 1st central brood nest. So steady well regulated temps of 35C (95F) is almost always associated with brood rearing, climbing temperature either indicates a cluster move or a brood nest in the upper box. This is one reason I added a couple of cheaper T-temperature only sensors along the sides to help understand cluster movement as well as the interior warm wall exterior cold interface.

I attached a more labelled version from the 2018-2019 season (H1 TH MID) on the chart posted yesterday. Last year out of 4 hives 1 started brood rearing in late February/early March under still very harsh winter conditions while the other 3 never really got started until early April.

I was trying to understand a few things, is a candy board really necessary for "wintering" bees up at 60N? The answer was no. Is the candy board a good indicator of current store levels (honey)? Not really as 2 of the hives had consumed some of the dry sugar (candy) and were active on the sugar but once I completed my 1st inspection on April 1 all of the hives had 2 to 4 full frames of honey left. H1 that started early brood rearing had the most. Is having my moisture quilt/candy & pollen feeding slot important to have in each colony? Yes, as it lets me quickly verify "wetness" levels and feed my early spring pollen patty and throw on a 1L 2:1 ziplock bag feeder on those early warm days.

I read a lot and I was trying to understand when things really get going. Most of the beekeeping advice comes from people with un-insulated hives from the south where one of the biggest wintering problems is starvation (due to poor and too late winter prep, taking too much honey, not wrapping hives, etc... - In my opinion).

The data I am collecting lets me go back in history and see my past season. I like stating observations/realizations in question form as it forces me and the reader try to answer it themselves. Like "Are winter bees raised or are they winter bees because of winter showing up and the fact that brood rearing slows or stops so the bees go into a more efficient "hibernating" form that allows them to survive longer and be in a position to delay becoming nurse bees for 6-7 months?". This was a big ah ha moment for me as most of the literature (beekeeping books) state that winter bees are raised vs just become. This is the reason a did some pollen collecting in June and early August for short intervals to understand quantity and variety. Next season, I will do 6 hrs of collecting at 2 week intervals. 

The other question I am asking myself: Is beekeeping sustainable north of 60 (cost, impact to environment, time)? To answer this question I need data.

And I am addicted to Bees.


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