> What material gives an R5 for wrapping? Black tar paper?

Fiberglas, Kodel, and various battings, as well as styrofoam, wrapped with 
black plastic or tarpaper.  If you use plastic, be careful not to make 
things too airtight.  The insulation, other than styrofoam, has to breathe.

> There are very few hives I feel a need to wrap. If some have small cracks 
> I plan to use duct tape. The equipment is old and some of the edges of the 
> boxes are a little rotten or chipped, I will be using allot of duct tape. 
> I plan to start this next week the weatherman promises a few mild days.

What, if anything, did the owner use in the past?  What do the neighbouring 
beekeepers use?  What does Tony recommend?  It is possible that wrapping is 
optional or even unecessary in your area.  The best plan is always to see 
what nearby long-time successful beekeepers are doing.

> Insulating the top? Our hives all have inner covers made from masonite 
> with a notch in the wood frame and a rather large center hole to let out 
> moisture, the outer covers are telescoping. How do you fit insulation 
> between them or are you speaking of putting the insulation on the top of 
> the outer cover? What product is used whether it be on the inner or on the 
> top cover?

I have just cut a slab of pink insulation and put it under the outer lid. 
Styrofoam does not get wet, but does not snug up as tightly.

Whatever you decide, be very careful about changing whatever has worked well 
for the owner over the years.  Even minor changes in working systems can 
result in unintended and unforseen effects.  If he is available, he is your 
best source of advice.

> we have a group of hives that are going to get an amount of wind. Would 
> snow fencing be adequate as a wind break? Or should I move those hives to 
> a more protected area when I know the bees have clustered. They are on a 
> knoll in a field with only a couple of pear trees around them so no wind 
> break.

Wind breaks are good, but overrated.  I have wintered very successfully on 
the very top of bald prairie hills (wrapped hives) where winds can be nasty 
and temps drop to minus forty.  They did better than sheltered hives in low 
spots.  I was out inspecting the other day in yards where our sample bottles 
blew right off the hives if we put them down on a lid for a second.  The 
beekeeper winters in those yards quite successfully.  It was miserable for 
us to work in, but the bees do fine.

> Can bring them to the hedge row on the upper end of the field with out 
> loosing fliers? Is there a point where they will not fly so a short move, 
> about 700 yards is ok?

If the weather continues cool or rainy and they have not flown much lately, 
you can move them as you please and they will not get lost.

These things are hard to prescribe by email, although we are more than happy 
to discuss generalities and advise on interpreting data.  There are too many 
details that depend on locale.  The best plan is to consult the owner, 
consider finding and joining a bee club locally and definitely consulting 
your state apiarist to confirm what you learn here before making big 
changes.  That is his job, and he will be delighted to advise you, I am 
sure. 

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