Subject: | |
From: | |
Reply To: | |
Date: | Wed, 27 Sep 2006 22:36:22 -0500 |
Content-Type: | text/plain |
Parts/Attachments: |
|
|
Bob,
Finally a reply for your mail dealing with winter bees!!!!!
Your comment are most enlightening and presumably often used in climatic
conditions that are not current here in Manitoba.
The bees here have an air of being in harmony with the climatic
conditions - during the summer period. Winter shows that they are
dependant on Humans for survival! The in-between weeks varies from year
to year.
The time frame from winter protection till main nectar flow and back is
short. Our intervention ensures that a reasonable proportion of colonies
survive.
Winter inactivity for the bees may extend from Mid October till the
beginning of April. Healthy bees with lots of stores required - and they
will only survive then in protected conditions (inside or wrapped).
Spring depends on pollen from natural sources which are often frosted
off or unavailable due to inclement weather.
From May till late June, the colonies may be dealt with - split,
requeened, fed amongst many other procedures. This is not a long period
of time to get colonies ready for the flood of nectar that arrives
during July/August.
After this short period -it is straight back to winter preparations.
Any mishap and a colony is likely not going to make a rentable harvest
for the beekeeper.
You mention pulling frames to open up the brood area - quite see your
logic. The situation usually present is that the bees are either in a
harvesting mode for the beekeeper or in a time period that is too late
to do such a procedure as they have to be spending the time getting
ready for winter. It is either brood or enough stores stored.
We do not have the luxury of waiting for brood during our late season
when it should already be in place. Feeding starts in September.
Add on treating for mites - after the flow but before winter bees are in
place and 24 hours in a day is cutting it fine. On top is the process of
extraction. Needs to be done, finished before the other items mentioned.
Result: A successful year is one where all run in sequence to a very
tight timetable. One feature out of place and problems rise as sure as
we will get -35 degree celsius winters.
Once the bees start to configure their brood / nest area for the "deep
sleep", any reorganisation in that box often results in that colony not
making it till spring.
Hence my report and questions - During this end of season, the bees shut
down brood and filled the box with honey. I am hoping that the winter
bees are there! If not - the potential to rectify is severally limited -
unlike in regions with more clement climates and extended seasons - re:
your comment about hitching a lift south.
Removal of old summer bees by moving during the daylight hours - have
seen the results of that in France where chaos resulted in one
individual do such a thing and having bees flying around a close village
for several days looking for home.
I want my old bees to store the winter feed and wearing themselves out
conditioning it . After that, walk out never to return.
Colonies entering the wintering shed often will be so strong that if the
lid is opened they ooze over the sides.
I wondered if this cluster size would gobble up the stores!
So far, not so.
But in mid February, there has been a week during which the floor
becomes covered with 2 - 3 cm of dead bees. Before very few and the same
after. Summer bees really stretching it out or winter bees. You tell me.
So, as things stand, feeding this year is in limited quantities, the
colonies look strong, the mite levels are low and I am leaving them out
till it really gets cold. With all that natural food, they sure are
going to need empty rectums on entering my wintering room.
Regards,
Peter
-- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info ---
|
|
|