> I wonder if Allen could share with us some helpful details of exactly hoe
> he does a walk away split?

I detail that at http://www.honeybeeworld.com under 'selected topics'.

> The thing that troubles me most is how you
> insure that there are eggs in the queenless half ?

That can be a problem.  Weight is a hint, and a frame of eggs can be added
if there is doubt.

> Also, does he practice
> rotation of the hive bodies prior to the split?

Sometimes, if the top boxes are very heavy, but not if I have arrived in
time.

> And how is the timing of  this process determined ? Is it relative to what
> flowers are blooming, or
> relevant to how strong the hive bodies appear on a tip-over inspection?

Yup.  I always do it on a decent flow, in good weather.  I do tip forward to
ensure that there are good populations below.  I also have auger holes in
each brood box and that, along with entrance activity, tells me a lot.

> Does it matter if there are active swarm cells or not?

I try to get there before swarming, and always add lots of boxes early to
prevent it.

Swarm cells can be a good thing for splitting, but splitting does not always
forestall a swarm, I am told.  If swarming has begun, however, the cells can
be put to good use. Many anal beekeepers will tell you not to use them, but
Dave and I concur that bees that can get strong enough to swarm have many
good characteristics, and besides, they are there, and the price is right.

> Is the "walk-away"
> carried to a remote apiary or is it kept in the same apiary such that the
> foragers can return to the original hive location?

Depends on the amount of flow and flight and how serious you are about
keeping hives even.  There are tricks to distribute bees between hives by
leaning boards in front of entrances, rotating hives, pulling overly strong
hives back a few feet, etc.  I also cover that in some of my essays
mentioned above.  Moving to another yard is definitely and option.

Very good questions.  I hope I have answered them.

allen

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