There is almost always a problem with a hive that causes robbers to attack
(Or a mistake by the beekeeper).  Once started, robbing is difficult to stop
and at this advanced stage (time wise), you have likely pretty much lost the
colony and almost for sure their stores.

The very first thing to do is remove any feeders.  

I have had success at stopping robbers and saving colonies IF CAUGHT IN
TIME.  First stop up all non standard entrances (duct tape works).  If you
have inner covers with vent holes either cover them or place a menthol bag
over them (this works best).  Take a charged fume board and rest the narrow
end on the bottom board at the hive entrance, out about mid way to all the
way.  Face the activated side toward the hive.  Prop a support (I use a
steel "T" post) to hold the other end of the fume board against the hive
front.  What you will have done is force the robbers to go between the fume
board and the hive to gain entrance.  After dark, remove the fume board and
check really early next morning or better, take the hive away from that
location and go in and see what is wrong.  If you open the hive in place,
you will almost always restart or accelerate the robbing if there is
anything left for them to rob.

I live in north Alabama.  From now until fall, I have better luck combining
the hive with a known good one BUT NOT UNTIL you have stopped the robbing
and/or moved the hive out of that robbing range.   

If they have harvestable honey, take it but do it quickly.  DO NOT put it on
other hives for them to maintain until you are ready for it.  That will
almost always cause a robbing problem with the second hive.

Stopping robbing is more of an adventure than a cure.  Typically that hive
will cost you more in time and labor than the colony is worth.  On a small
scale (not a commercial beekeeper) it can an interesting challenge for a
hobbyist to take on.  Commercial beekeepers often look at robbing as a
culling process.

Good Luck.
 
Bob Fanning
Huntsville, AL USA

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