Al asks:
The problem is the capped honey is running about 19 % moisture and the
partially capped is measuring 20% to 21% moisture.

Always check moisture *before* extracting!

 >This crop was pulled in the am and was extracted the same
day in a reasonably dry area under air conditioning.

An AC will pull moisture out of honey but a temp around 90F and a
dehumidifier works better. About three days and up to seven days was needed
to get the above honey correct.

Once extracted:
You can drop the moisture content a full percent by heating to the 140 F.
range in a bottling tank with a lid and wiping the moisture off the lid with
a tea towel.

Each time you do the honey will darken but each time the moisture level will
drop.

The only other method I know of without a commercial honey drier is too
spread the honey out in a tank like Kelley sells (4 foot long) in a room
with a dehumidifier for days.

Mix with a honey with a low moisture content.

Al said:
 The hive beetle problem  makes leaving supers setting
about a real disaster.

True! and not a simple answer exists.

 Do not bring in more supers than you can easily monitor and keep a close
eye on  while in the honey house.

In areas of small hive beetle you also need to make sure all you bring into
the honey house is comb. Blowing bees from supers also blows SHB from
supers. Leaf blowers  work for the hobby beekeeper.

Fume boards will not always drive SHb from the supers. The adult female SHB
is the problem.

Many other methods to help control SHB in the honey house are in the
archives such as a bright light ( SHb travel to) , temp & humidity concerns.
My name and the word small hive beetle should bring up a few hits.

Sincerely,
Bob Harrison

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