Oh dear Todd! here we go again - for the last time:

a) If it is claimed that just roughing the surface of softwood will give
latex primer the level of wet adhesion provided by a solvent-based stain we
can stop right here, this is nonsense.

b) These long-oil alkyds have a higher oil content than the usual
binders.These coatings  are not just " thinned paint" , the pigmentation is
lower, different and no extenders are employed.

c) Wicks are bad news, they protrude thro the film and can conduct moisture
into the coating.

d) Why not? if the film is so soft you cannot sand it its no use to me.The
wood itself is sometimes not of very good quality and water does not help.
If you cannot sand out subsequent imperfections in the coating this is a
disadvantage.I would do this for solvent-based coatings if the wood is poor.

e) I think such warranties must be as full of holes as a Swiss cheese.

f) Again why not? Water can get into these joints and soak into the wood.The
latex-treated surfaces are pressed together by the weight- bound to stick
certainly when new.Pigmented long-oil alkyds are hard enough to avoid this.

g) OK you live in a perfect world.I also do not believe,as you state, that
latex paints are used on ferrous metals, particularly structural steel; I
worked in
this area for 6 years.I am talking of serious painting.

h) The sort of chalking you are talking about does not arise with the
coatings I am describing.You are talking of  house paints
with certain binders.As you know, chalking is often welcomed as it keeps
white facades clean in a dirty environment.

i) Finally, I am aware of 100% acrylics having worked 20years for a company
making them.They are good in some applications .I cannot see why they are
essential for hive painting.You obviously have a commercial interest .Sorry.
Here we can still buy coatings based upon mineral spirit of very low
aromatic content, long may it continue.
Derek Steed

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