What Dan says about the tossing the brood/feral comb above an excluder
works but I would caution the beekeeper on timely removal of the super
with comb. You must remove the comb immediately after the last brood
hatches or the bees will waste alot of energy building every inch of
that box with wax and nectar.
    If the queen squeezes through the excluder you'll have a REALLY
tough time sending her down onto your foundation below.  I have 2 or 3
hives that have 'beaten me' and kept a box or two of feral comb for
years because I haven't convinced the queen to lay onto my
frames...yet.  Treating for varroa is really a problem in those hives
among other issues.

If you're certain the queen is below the excluder (check for 1-day old
eggs) you could try a method I've experimented with:   Move your comb
higher and higher above the excluder and queen/newfoundation using empty
deeps (no frames) as spacers.  Bees will eventually rob out the feral
comb above since it is too far away from the broodnest.  Sometimes
you'll end up with 3 deeps between comb and queen.  This only works when
the weather is warm and you have to be certain there's no cracks nor
upper entrance for outside robbers to visit.

<brood will have hatched and the wall comb can be>
<placed outside for the bees to complete robbing.  By>

A few years ago when I only had 15-20 hives I made the practice of
placing feral comb on the perch of hives for robbing and was cautioned
against this practice by several beekeepers.
I didn't see the threat so continued with this practice.  Now I
understand robbing a bit better and would strongly caution anyone
against placing comb on the front of their hives.  Robbing can be a
tough habit to break once they get started.  You might end up fighting
with bees instead of managing all summer long.

Matthew Westall

dan hendricks wrote:

>  I have done this several times and it works just fine.
>  In three weeks all the brood will have hatched and the wall comb can
> be
>   Dan
>

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     //        Earthling Bees
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