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Thu, 2 Aug 2001 14:19:38 -0500 |
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I have been keeping bees a short time (this spring) and have seen various
discussions about non-chemical treatments for varroa mites. I have searched
the archives and the web with no luck, looking for a list of them. Can
anyone point me in the right direction? The ones I have heard of were: using
drone comb and freezing the frame, powdered sugar, and ventilated bottom
boards. I didn't catch all the exact details for each process and if someone
could expand I would appreciate it. Also what is the recommended treatment
for tracheal mites; is there a non-chemical approach?
I also would like someone to possibly comment on my observations. I
installed an "in hive" nectar feeder that sits above my super but below my
telescoping cover so my bees can only get to it form the inside. I have
noticed since I have installed this my bees seem to be much tamer. Before I
was feeding them with ziplock Baggies that I put hundreds of needle holes
in. I laid these in Tupperware on top of the hive on the outside. I also
had an entrance feeder. I decided to get this new feeder because I was
constantly refilling the bottles and bags and I had 5 -10 yellow jackets
always around trying to get a free meal. My bees were always on the
defensive and I didn't know if the yellow jackets or their desire to guard
the food source was causing this behavior. Anyway they are much less
aggressive now and I can refill on the inside with less resistance than I
could when it was on the outside! Do bees hate yellow jackets this much? I
know the hive can be aggressive when a YJ nest is nearby and I constantly
look for this (my hive is in a wooded lot and I have many YJ) but I didn't
think a few of them would upset them so much. I kill the YJs every chance I
get and was wondering if anyone knew of a trap I could use for them. It
seems since they are constantly ending up in my humming bird feeders (and my
bees do not), I could design a trap/feeder with holes large enough for the
yellow jackets but too small for the honey bees to get in and if placed near
the hive I could get rid of them. Although I have fewer now than before the
YJs still attack and kill all the young bees that are learning to fly when
they hit the ground in front of the hive.
I hope I don't tax the collective wisdom too much but I have another
question. How often should I be opening up the hive to check on them, and
when I do should I remove the top (deep body) brood chamber to check on the
one below? Some local bee keepers tell me every week, but I have also read
it disturbs your bees and sets them back too much if you do this.
Thanks so much for any information.
Newbee in Al
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