>If I could, I would opt for the dipping treatment, which at least one guy
>in our area was (is?) using.  The hive parts were dipped in a molten
>mixture of paraffin and rosin, and from what I was told, the super boxes,
>lids, etc. really sizzle and soak that stuff up.  Then over time, it
>weathers nicely to a natural greyish tone which is pretty good camoflage.
>After spending so much time, effort, and money on building good equipment,
>it only seems fitting to give it a good overall treatment like this.
>Anyone on Bee-L been using the dip?
 
I dipped a couple hundred new boxes this summer in paint and was pleased
with the process (used a LOT of paint though, even thinned heavily).  They
look really good so far.  I have used paraffin to coat the inside of top
tray feeders and have NOT been satisfied,  it has usually flaked and
chipped.  Unless the rosin has a very marked effect on the wax (I don't know
about this, although I have used rosin and rosin oil and beeswax to make
flypaper) the wood must be VERY dry and the wax VERY hot and this is VERY
dangerous.
 
*****CAUTION*******CAUTION!!!!!!!!!********8
 
I do not believe that you could keep the wax hot enough to penetrate the
wood without having the heat source right under the vessel you are dipping
in (if you were doing any amount) and it is unlikely that you could dip
without some dripping and splashing.  Splashing wax and heat source is a
FIRE HAZARD so bee careful.
 
Splashing wax can also burn badly.  I am speaking from experience having
once burnt my young daughter who was watching me dipping large cheeses in
parrafin/beeswax.  The rope holding the big wheel broke and a good splash
got her on the leg.  It was not very nice, and that wax was considerably
cooler that what I think would be necessary for good penetration is wood.
In my opinion the hazards should be a big consideration in thinking about
treating with this sort of dip.
 
Regards, Stan