On Sat, 9 Nov 1996, Tom & Carol Elliott wrote:
 
>
> One thing I did do a bit differently than standard was to make a few top bars with one-half a bee
> space openning on each side.  Then in the fall I was able to add standard supers and move the bees
> up for a wintering attempt.  (The top width of my TBH was made the same as the length of a standard
> super.)
 
Tom and others, I put a full bee space notch in the center, one side only
of all of my tb's.  I keep the holes covered with a thin strip of wood or
something unless I want to use use holes for ventilation or additional
entrances.  When I move the strip, I can see how far the bees have drawn
out the combs rather than tapping on the tb's as some have done.  I can
keep the holes covered as I work the hive should I need to. The holes can
serve as gateways to a super, though I have cut a wire excluder into
strips and made queen excluder top bars which work very well.
 
> Crops do not in my experience are not only less than with standard
> equipment, but extracting is comparatively easy.  But, I would still
> encourage you to try one or two just for fun.  You will learn some new
> things.
 
Tom, I agree with you here.  It might be possible to get comparable crops
with enough work, but I doubt that it could ever equal the production of
conventional hives with stacks of supers.  Don't think it's the way to go
for commercial honey production on a big scale with thousands of hives;
however, for pollination services...maybe it has some promise.  As for me,
if I want more honey I just get out my tools and cobble up another tbh
from scrap or, this spring...I'll be using some plastic 30 gallon drums
for hive bodies.  Yep, learning continues.  Think I'll write a book on tbh
beekeeping as soon as I know everything...come to think of it, I'll
*never* write the book for I'll never know everything! :)
 
Cordially yours,
 
Jim
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  |  James D. Satterfield        |  E-Mail: [log in to unmask]       |
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