We use a deep and a 6 5/8 medium with a frame feeder in it year-round. 9 frames below and 8 frames (tight) above (the feeders take up 2 frames space). This seems to be an ideal size for the brood chamber (Central CA). All of our bees are on pallets. I've thought about this box size idea many times. This configuration saves some height on a truck but only about 7 inches. It is lighter by about 15% and the filled supers (mediums) are easier to handle (weight-wise). I bought into an existing business and am really set to run it this way. I'm going to start running hives for myself also in the next 2 years and have settled on a configuration basically like Allen described. The size of the brood-chamber does seem to be too large but, the addition of a feeder into each box should help there. This also would give the chambers complete interchangability which makes dividing much quicker and cheaper. For a commercial operation keeping bees is very labor-intensive. Any reduction in time, and repetition is money in the bank. The equipment is cheaper, more available, less wasted spaces in the hive, and much more efficient in the honeyhouse and the field. I'm sold, the big drawback is the weights of deeps filled. Allen, I'm one of those guilty of "plugging-out" supers and have had numerous discussions with my partner about this subject. We are trying some "too-soon supering" (for lack of a better term) to get a sense of it this year. I hope it does prove to work better because if I wanted to be "buffed-out" I'd rather go to the gym than lift off deeps in 100 F+ temps. We just sold 40 barrels for $.555 (amber orange/wildfower mix) orange crop was down to poor temps and rain. Also, the Piercos seem to be working out fine, they did do a much better job of stiffening them. Here's a question for the group, I just finished reading the Aug. issue of ABJ and found the article about the "Drone to Worker Shift" pg. 535 interesting. How about some views on when to treat hives for Varroa based on hive growth patterns and fall preprations. Do you think that treating early (possibly with low V counts) saves those winter bees for the cluster and causes less winter loss? When do you treat? Lots of people I know say by the middle of Sept. they want to be finished (Central CA). We have had much better success in the last two years. I think that comes a great deal from others in the area treating also and a lowered reinfestation pressure. I would tend to think timing is crucial. So how about this one! Brian Tassey [log in to unmask]