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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

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Subject:
From:
Mike Rossander <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Sat, 12 Jul 2003 19:59:03 -0700
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So much has been said about cutting handholds that I thought I'd chime in.  I've switched to a different type of handhold and I don't think I'll go back.

I am using the styrofoam hive bodies.  When I put wood supers on top the first time, I discovered that I had not painted the top of the styrofoam.  Since the wood wall is thinner than the styrofoam wall, I had a lip of unpainted styrofoam exposed to the elements.  I suppose I could have just painted the styrofoam.  For some reason instead I cut some scrap one-by-ones to make a rim around the top and bottom of the wood supers so the thickness would be the same as the thickness of the styrofoam walls.  A little wood glue and a couple of self-starting screws in each piece and, presto, no more exposed styrofoam.

I discovered the real benefits a few weeks later when I went to work the hive.  The rims were sturdy enough that I used them to lift the supers.  Since they ran the whole length of the box, they were very easy to use and let me adjust my grip.  Being right at the top of the box was a help, too.  No more groping for the handhold.  My posture was better and the lifting easier.  The supers also seemed to be easier to separate.  (My hypothesis is that the deeper wood-to-wood contact leaves fewer gaps and therefore the bees laid down less propolis.)

Because I put the rims on both tops and bottoms, they stand on end neatly (solving the problem of the commercial keeper who complained about tipping when he buys hobbyist boxes).  In fact, I think they do one better because they get ventilation when sitting on a damp floor.

Note:  I do use the styrofoam top covers which are larger to fit over a box with the wider walls.  If you have a lot of older telescoping covers, this probably wouldn't work.


Mike Rossander

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