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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

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Subject:
From:
Lance Parr <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Thu, 13 Dec 2001 20:25:31 -0600
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George said:

>Guess I am just old, but I despise a division board feeder, because the hive
>has to be opened to check it or replenish the feed, and too often, bees are
>drowned in the feeder.

I have a solution for both of those problems as well.  To refill the feeder I slide the migratory top over just enough to expose the feeder (it's always on the end) and pour the syrup in.  I don't even need smoke to do this.  After I've filled the feeders a couple of times the bees have figured out what's going on and they greet me with enthusiasm when the cover's slid aside.  I fan fold a piece of window screen and slide it inside of the feeder before I fill it to give the bees something to climb out of the syrup if they fall in.  I used to have a lot of drowned bees before I started adding the screen.  The only other problem that I've had with division feeders is that they tend to sag in the Texas heat when full of syrup.  I solved that problem by drilling two sets of holes directly across from each other about 1/4 inch from the top rim and threading long 1/8 inch bolts of a length that's just longer than the width of the non-deformed feeder, and secure them with locking nuts.  This keeps the top of the feeder from spreading and adds enough rigidity to keep them from sagging.  I noticed that Brushy Mountain Bee Farm includes plastic clips with their division feeders to accomplish the same thing.  My favorite division feeders are from Mann Lake.  They are heavier than the others and don't require my modification to keep them from sagging.

>In cold weather (maybe not in Texas), bees can't get to the
>division board feeder and might starve.

I only feed in warm weather.  Definitely not a problem in Texas.  I feed in the spring and fall to medicate with Terramycin and Fumdil B, and to boost colonies that are light coming out of the "winter" (which I put in quotes because we really don't have one here in Texas).  Sometimes I'll feed light colonies (late swarms or wall removals) going into the fall, but I generally leave them enough stores so it isn't a problem.

>My choice of feeders is a gallon glass jar upside down right on top of the frames.

Don't you have to open the hive to refill the jar?  And what keeps the bees from filling the space around the feeder with comb?  I know that a lot of beekeepers feed this way with no problem and I've always wondered how they get away with it.  I still like my division feeders because a lot of bees can get to the syrup at once and I don't need an extra deep super to put around the jar.  I can feed a gallon every two days like this to a colony that's starting to build (which means that I have to fill the feeder every other day).

>I agree with you about the Boardman feeder.  I NEVER use one, mainly because
>it presents an opportunity to robber bees to invade a new weak hive when there is
>a nectar dearth.

Fire ants are my bane.  I've had to isolate colonies using jar lids filled with vegetable oil (never use motor oil for this - it'll turn your apiary into a hazmat scene and it's not environmentally friendly).  And I've had rogue colonies rob out of a neighbor's division feeder during a dearth.  I generally reduce entrances when I feed to try to keep this from getting started.  Once it gets started all I can do is stop feeding until the robbers forget where the food is and loose interest.

>Have a fine holiday season.

And you as well, George!  And the same to the rest of the BEE-L family!

Take care,

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