BEE-L Archives

Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

BEE-L@COMMUNITY.LSOFT.COM

Options: Use Monospaced Font
Show Text Part by Default
Show All Mail Headers

Message: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Topic: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Author: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]

Print Reply
Subject:
From:
Bob Harrison <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2006 09:22:13 -0600
Content-Type:
text/plain
Parts/Attachments:
text/plain (61 lines)
>Bob's statement that none of the big beekeepers he meets use spacers was a
surprice for me.

When Stoller came up with the spacers we all thought they would be a good
thing to use and tried spacers. We quickly found they were a pain for the
reasons listed. We remove any we find.

 >Somehow I had got an idea that most big beekeepers in USA used them.

I have never seen a large beekeeper using spacers in honey supers.

I have never seen a spacer in a honey super of Bell Honey (Florida).
I have seen slats on many deep supers used in large operations. The typical
small hand holds are dangerous in areas of intense flows where deep supers
can weigh 80 or so pounds. Gloves wet from honey and those hand holds are
dangerous. I have had my big toe on my right foot broken .

The only good point about spacers in the super would be saving the time of
spacing when placing supers on the hive. Many other problem issues such as
cleaning rails, hard to remove frames and repair of loose spacers.

I use 9 frame spacing in supers and usually only a couple frames need
adjusting. You can as suggested jar the box before placing and most frames
will line up.

I hire an autistic  person to work in my honey house. He does an excellent
job of cleaning frames and rails. He lines frames correctly in supers after
extracting and is picky about placement on storage skids. Part of his
handicap. He is slow but steady. I do not have to stand over him to get the
work done. I  dread the day I lose his help.

I have got wooden spacer tools like Mike suggested which work to space
quickly but usually quicker to simply adjust a frame or two. Especially the
outside frames.

>I quess when you truck the bees you always have 10 frames in a 10 frame
box.

Nine is the norm. 10 are slower to work as frames are harder to remove. I
buy used equipment and once 9 has been used its hard to go to 10 frames.
Also we use inside feeders. Some boxes have got 8 frames and an inside
feeder. Some 9. Whatever works.

My autistic helper is to slow for bee yard work which is sad. I do take him
when not in a hurry or doing  work like putting on honey supers.

He is completly not bothered by a room full of supers waiting to be
extracted. Others are overwelmed and act like the car driver which can not
wait to get to his destination instead of sitting back and enjoying the
trip.

My autistic helper never gets upset when I dump a pallet of boxes or run a
tank over. I get upset (at myself) but when I look over he is getting the
tools needed to clean up the spill or picking up the boxes. I have learned
from his nature. I am the only person in the area which will hire the boy
which is sad.

Bob

-- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and  other info ---

ATOM RSS1 RSS2