Garth, and everyone else.  If you use this system, and especially if you
heat the wax over an open flame, have a tight fitting cover for the barrel
in which you're doing the processing.  Also have some device with which
you can place the cover on an actively burning barrel of hot wax.  Welding
a long handle on the barrel cover couldn't hurt.  IF the was gets to hot
and begins to burn, put the cover on the barrel and extinguish the heat
source.  Don't try to douse the fire in the wax itself.  With any luck,
you'll never need the cover or the water to use on any nearby material
which begins to burn.  But much better to be prepared.  Oxygen starvation
will quickly put out the fire in the wax and keep it out until the wax
cools to below its flash point.  Water put into the wax will sink and
quickly turn to steam with explosive effect.  Any foreign substance (eg
from a dry chem fire extinguisher) will spoil the wax.  If the was has
ignited because it's gotten too hot (rather than the vapor above the wax
igniting from a stray ember) will flash again as soon as a CO2 or Halide
vapor blanket dissipates.
 
Let's be careful out there.
 
> What's great is your wood won't warp or split if dry when you paraffin it!
>250F.  If you don't have a thermometer, a stick of wood inserted
>should immediately begin to bubble as air and moisture expand from the wood
>pores....
 
>Former NH/VT Apiary Inspector '78-=9289
>Linden Apiaries,1 McLean Road, POB 165, Walpole, NH 03608-0165 USA/EUA
>email: [log in to unmask]
 
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