>>If the Landstroh hive design was so near perfection with its space for ten frames, why then are we so often taught to space only nine frames in it?

I've heard that 9 frames are better in a 10-frame BROOD box - because they are allegedly easier to remove - but I don't buy it.  In my experience, the bees will always fill with propolis the space between the frame surfaces that would normally touch.  Makes it tough to separate the frames for removal.

10 frames gives more cells to lay eggs in although, in my experience, queens typically don't lay in the outer frames unless the solid bottom boards are replaced with screens.  Then the brood cluster will often be located to one side of the box - for better thermal control? - and there will be brood in one of the outer frames.

On the other hand, it makes sense to use < 10 frames in the honey supers.  I use 8 drawn-out frames.  Like you said, uncapping is much easier.  And you save the bees two-frames-worth of capping.

>>Is there any easily available and safe solvent for propolis?  Or wax for that matter?

Rubbing alcohol dissolves propolis fairly well.

There are neat hive designs less popular than Langstroth's in use today.  Some are based on continuous (no gap) brood frames.  Others let the bees draw out the combs as in the top bar hive (TBH).  In my humble opinion, the Langstroth is the most versatile for manipulation and moving.

Is there an ideal hive for the honeybee?  Probably but it would have to be specific to a weather region.  I've opened and removed a number of feral hives and each time the cavity was different in volume and shape.  It always amazes me how honeybees optimize the nest arrangement to a given cavity.  And if they don't like the first arrangement, they will adjust the combs in the following seasons.  They are amazingly flexible.

Waldemar
Long Island

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