Hi  all

Robin originally said...

> The problem I am refering to is how to get the first frame out of a
> full box

Murray's answer to this was pretty close to what I would have written, but I
go a little further when preparing the wooden frames in the first
instance... I put, what we in UK describe as petroleum jelly (a grease made
from beewax and FGMO) on the edges of the hoffman wings. This renders them
less liable to be propolised and any propolis that does occur cannot stick
hard.

I have a different take on the placement of one box on top of another...

My hives are National sized, but they are top bee space which seems to help.

The main feature of bee crushing is that a hive that is open for a long time
allows a number of bees to swell out onto external surfaces and these bees
deposit pheramones on the wood and are less easy to get back in the box
because outside smells as good as inside. quick and clean management takes
this out of the equation.

Overall, no matter which hive or style of box, bees are going to be crushed
in the course of normal working, the numbers are not significant, and one of
the reasons for large numbers in bee colonies is to for attrition due to
birds and preditors.

I should also amplify one of my previous posts and say that my dummy
positions were No. 1 and No. 11 not No. 1 & 2 as it appears that Robin
meant.


Best Regards & 73s, Dave Cushman... G8MZY
Beekeeping & Bee Breeding Website
Email: [log in to unmask] or  [log in to unmask]
http://website.lineone.net/~dave.cushman & http://www.dave-cushman.net

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