[log in to unmask] wrote an article about getting bees to vacate
deeps and move into mediums in response to an earlier query.  A few
words of caution about George's advice: Please be aware of George's
location (Maryland) and climatic conditions (winters relatively mild
compared to the REAL white north and probably with a lessening (in
severity) effect of the ocean).

His advice to remove an empty deep in January and feeding to have
foundation drawn in March is a recipe for disaster where I keep bees
(upstate NY).  I don't recall who originally asked the question (how
to get bees out of the deeps and into the mediums) and I don't
think a location for the query was ever identified (a common
omission), but the answer is very much determined by where one is
located.

In upsates NY, the easiest way to get the bees out of the deeps and into
the mediums is to simply take the empty deep from the bottom of the stack
when the bees are occupying only the top deep at the end of the winter
(early/mid March).  A good ROT date is the ides of March.

Move the top deep (which will be light at that time of year) to the bottom,
add a medium., done.  You can play around with the configuration once
or twice during spring build up by switching deep and medium a few times,
but make sure the deep ends on the bottom when the hive gets into
"production mode".  Again at this time of year the boxes won't be too
heavy.  When the hive is in production mode, be sure the deep is on the
bottom, the medium on top and leave it that way.  I run a lot of hives as
a deep and a medium, or a deep and two mediums.  If determined to get
rid of the remaining deep hive body, do so the following year when it's
empty.

Some problems with running all mediums: 1) If you sell nucs, the majority of
customers will want their nucs on deep frames.  2) Mite strips only come in
deep sizes.  Otherwise, standardizing on all mediums is a good strategy.
It's
something I've considered, but I have too much deep equipment to make
the transition.  As my years advance and my back is "less zealous" I have
been migrating towards a deep/medium configuration.

Aaron Morris - thinking there are 2 kinds of beekeepers: Beekeepers with
bad backs and beekeepers who are going to get bad backs!

Converting to mediums from deeps is really quite simple, if you are going to

do it next year.

Buy your medium bodies now and foundation, After thorough painting, put JUST

ONE on top of your 2 deeps now and FEED 1:1 sugar syrup to FORCE them to
draw
the foundation and maybe you will get some fall flow of goldenrod or
something (I don't
know your location).  If you can get the frames drawn and filled with honey
or sugar syrup, leave the mediums on for the winter in the TOP position.

During the winter the bees will eat their way UP from the bottom deep into
the 2nd deep and medium.  When the bottom deep is EMPTY (probably in
January,
remove it.)
In March add the 2nd medium of foundation and again, CONTINUOUS 1:1 sugar
syrup.
When about 6-7 of these 10 frames in the 2nd medium are drawn and filled
with
something (sugar syrup, pollen, or brood), add the 3rd medium of foundation.

When
6-7 of those frames are drawn and filled with something, add supers. Remove
that 2nd deep whenever it becomes empty of brood.

Depending on your location, you should have no deeps and at least 3 full
mediums by May or surely June.

If you are going to use queen excluders, which I strongly endorse, do not
add
the excluder or any honey supers without asking me for advice; because those

new supers will have to be "baited" or bees will not pass through the
excluder.

Hope I have helped.

George Imirie
69th year of beekeeping in Maryland
Certified EAS Master Beekeeper
Author of George's PINK PAGES