All, for small yards, there is an easy fix.  Its probably not well suited
for large apiaries -- although we run up to 70 hives this way.  There are
up front costs, but since the fix lasts for many years, it pays back in
honey, hive temperment, etc.

We've tried tack strips, wire mesh, pepper powder -- nothing is a sure
thing.  The hungry skunk doesn't mind a few pointed tacks or sneezing, and
will dig under and pull away wire excluders or fences.

What does work is to elevate the hives.  Skunks can't climb very well.  Our
University bee yard sits right on the edge of the Clark Fork river.  Lots
of skunks, and they can really do a job on the hives.

We built over-sized sawhorse stands. To save costs, we build long stands,
topped with planks.  Every other hive faces the opposite direction or is
skewed at an angle, so we cut down on drift, as illustrated below.



/|\   \|/   /|\    \|/ (orientation of hives on planks on top of x-brace
sawhorse stands)



Each hive hangs ten over the edge of the stand (the entrance cantilevers
out into space).  The stands are taller than a skunk standing on its hind
legs.  If a skunk somehow manages to crawl up onto the stand, it still
can't get at the bees because the entrances stick out past the stands.
Absolutely NO SKUNK damage or droppings full of bees in this yard.

Even a chain link fence around hives on a concrete pad didn't keep the
skunks out -- I suspect that they squeeze through between the locked gate
and the post.  But the stands work.

There's another benefit, if you don't put on too many supers, you can work
and inspect the hives without having to bend over as much.  Best thing we
ever did.  If you insist on piling on the supers, leave room for a box and
your truck.  Stand on the box, pull the supers, and lift onto your adjacent
truck bed.

Now, none of this works for bees on pallets UNLESS you put the pallets on
stands.  Two other benefits -- keeps the entrances out of the weeds and
provides some flood protection.

Cheers

Jerry