>>Can anyone tell me where I might buy hive stands, either portable or

>I'd recommend putting a couple of landscaping timbers propped up on cinder
>blocks ... Use 3 sets of blocks to prevent sagging (one at each end and
>one in the middle).

Been there, done that, and FWIW here are my thoughts on eight foot hive
stands, and I have about 250:

-landscaping timbers are heavy, overkill and do not require that level of
preservative if they are on blocks

-three sets of blocks are heavy, overkill and difficult to level

-it is possible to put five hives on an eight foot stand and still have a
couple of inches between them which is enough to keep ants from nesting
between the hives and to enable the easy working of them (much easier than
pallet arrangement)

-it is a waste of wood not to use lumber on its edge, but this requires the
two rails or joists to be nailed together with three crosspieces so they
remain on edge

Initially I made hive stands out of two 2 X 4 on edge with only two blocks
for a base (one at each end). So the hive stands could only be fifteen
inches wide so they could fit on a block.  The width was not a problem, and
allowed lots of space for a cleat on each side of the stand on the bottom
boards (so they can be slid together on the hive stand for moving and
strapped as a unit).  But the two blocks WAS a problem.  Sit a weight of up
to a ton on a tall skinny line on two blocks and you had better be pretty
fussy about getting those blocks level, and hope they stay level after a
heavy rain.  I had several tip overs.  Now I use two pieces of treated 4 X 4
bolted to the stand for feet.  They can only be twenty two inches long,
because when we load the trucks the stands are pushed right up to the stand
in front, but that is a six inch increase over the base length of a cement
block, which is enough for stability when the hives are still low in the
blueberry fields.  This year when the hives stands were moved to summer
yards I put each foot on another 4 X 4 which was  32 inches long (three from
an eight foot length).  This gave great stability and extra height which
made it easier to get the lifter in and out.  I did not have a single tip
over this year.  We no longer worry about levelling the stands, we just
plunk the extra wood pieces under the feet as we are lowering them.  But to
accomodate the new method the bottom boards now all have drains at both back
corners in case the hives have a lean back.

I no longer use 2 X 4, after a year or two they sag.  But two 2 X 6 on edge
is plenty strong enough to lift a ton (five hives in five full deeps) and
barely creaks.  However, the lifter does NOT lift at the ends, nor are the
feet at the ends.  If you place the feet one quarter of the way in from each
end, that nearly maximizes the strenth of the wood.  The lifter prongs are
just inside that, and that is the actual point of maximum strenth.  However,
you have to remember when loading the stand or unloading that you are
cantilevered out past the foot with the outside hives, and so you cannot
leave or place just one on edge of the stand without a counterweight.  But
because they slide on the stand so easily this is really no problem to deal
with as long as you remember.

The disadvantage of wood feet is that they can deteriorate, but having them
attached to the stand was a wonderful plus this season, as lifting hundreds
of cement blocks around at night was a real chore, as was levelling them.

Oh, and as regards "having a place to put things between the hives", I just
use the hives themselves.  Put stuff on the cover of one of the hives.  I
put boxes on a low hive frequently.  My covers (migratory style) have
strips lenthwise on the top edges which make a great box rest.

Regards,
Stan