Mike wrote:

>>if you would push the frames almost together, as
if there were 10, and leave a larger space at the sides, then they would be easier to remove. Move an outside frame over a bit...

I always find the colonies, if they are strong, building excessive bridge/burr/ladder comb between the outside frame and the box itself if too much space is allowed.  This burr comb gets quite hard over time.  Then, if I move the outside frame over, to make room, the stiff burr comb pierces into the honey-filled comb and, as a frame is pulled up, the burr comb, like a knife, cuts through the comb often killing bees and sending honey down the frame.

This can still happen with 10 frames (bees like bridges to cross from one surface to another, and all equipment is not identical, if the gap is more than a bee space) but it happens much less in my experience.

Since I always inspect without protective clothing and typically without smoke, I don't like crushing a single bee so prefer the 10-frame arrangement.  Crushing a single bee can release alarm scent and makes the bees a bit defensive.  Stinging, especially to the face, is a bit painful.;-)

>>Yes, they will build that side of the outside comb fatter, and even build some burr comb in that spot...

I like my frames to be fully interchangeable.  I've gotten into trouble with the fatter comb when trying to insert a frame with a fatter side in the middle of other frames.  The fatter side typically crushed bees against 'regular' thickness comb it since there would be less than a bee space.  Of course, bees would shave the fatter side down over time to restore the bee space.

Waldemar
Long Island, NY

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