>On Mon, 24 Jun 1996 15:02:50 -0500 Robert Hayes wrote: > >> I'd suggest the following: >> 1) close down the opening in the tree to one which can be covered with an >> inverted cone of window screening sticking out about a foot and 1/2 or so >> with the end of the cone reduced to allow the exit of a bee at a time. >> 2) securely position a full depth brood super ( with full covers, base etc.) >> high enough to be nearer to the old opening than the new opening at the end >> of that inverted cone of screen. You might make a little 2x4 platform >> first. >> 3) into the hive body you can put fully drawn out comb that's had a freezer >> treatment to extinguish mites and some new regular foundation too. > >Just one important point here,..You cant get the old Q out by this method which is what is >trying to be done! > >I'd put a box on top of the stump and wait until the Q is in it and laying, take the box away then >close up the top of the stump and let the bees in the stump rear a new Q or.. as you suggested >use a Q exclr if you want to remove the complete nest. Thanks Phil, You are confirming what I thought about that post. I have done that to get the two hives I started over again with this year. I got them out of a tree in my front yard, but I had to put queens in each time I robbed workers. The queen is still in the tree and the hive is recovering. I wanted to do this hive in the stump differently and get the queen. I think your idea about the hive raising a new queen when I get the old one is great. I can work on that next spring and get two more hives. Then I can move the second hive in the day time and leave the stragglers a new queen in a box to get one more and to rob the stump of honey. Thanks, ################## From the desk of, Bruce Kemp [log in to unmask] 1-540-626-4677