To all unlucky swarmchasers, Much discussion recently on the problems of swarming. There is clearly much confusion amongst beginners. As one who has checked for swarms over many years may I be permitted a few observations based on everyday experience. Firstly swarming is the bees' method of procreation. This is the most important urge in every life form that wishes to continue living on this planet. Honeybees chose this method millions of years ago and although we have been trying to domesticate them for the past 5000 years they carry on in their own sweet way and we must accept it. Books generalise on swarming. You read that young queens are less likely to swarm. That is true but some young queens will swarm so you can never be sure. Congestion causes swarming. Partly true but if the bees are intent on swarming all the efforts of the beekeeper to open up the broodchamber, shift brood, give foundation and supers, etc., will not stop them. Swarms go as soon as the queen cells are capped. Usually true but hot weather will drive them out early before capping and wet or cold weather may delay them for several days. The thread recently about looking for eggs to determine whether the bees have or have not swarmed is a strange one. The presence or absence of eggs has little meaning as bees will swarm leaving open larvae and eggs or open larvae and no eggs or no open larvae and no eggs. The only true indication lies in the queen cells present and they are obvious to anyone. No queen cells, no swarming. Open queen cells with larvae, swarming on its way. Capped queen cells, bees have gone or are about to go. Open mature queen cells with some torn down, the swarm has gone, leaving a virgin who has gone round destroying her rivals. The reason for little open brood is because for several days the bees have forced the queen to reduce egg laying in order to slim down and be physically fit for flying. This condition will vary from stock to stock. The decision to swarm takes place at least a fortnight before the swarm leaves. The bees have to manufacture queen cups and persuade the queen to lay in them. This is not done in one day so the beekeeper will find larvae at different stages of development. It takes around ten days from when the egg is laid to when the cell is capped and the bees are ready to go. During this time the queen's egg laying drops off and the bees hang around the hive appearing less willing to work. Is the choice of who is to go and who to remain a chance thing or is it regulated? Only the bees know that one. We do know that the division is variable, but approximately half the bees go, a mixture of nurse bees, wax makers and foragers, even drones although they are not needed at this stage. If the swarm gets away, the chance of a honey crop is negligible, at least in my part of the world. I have a short season, May, June and early July. By the time the stock is up to strength the flows are nearly over. If the swarm is taken it goes back to whence it came, to keep the stock at full strength. If the swarm is hived separately it may give a surplus in the first few weeks but it will steadily dwindle away for the first five weeks. It is well known that the stronger the stock the greater the honey yield per bee and one strong stock will produce more surplus than three weak ones. For me the art of beekeeping lies in maintaining the stock at maximum strength for the duration of the nectar flows. May is usually the best month but this year May is colder than April and the bees are still living on their stores. Fields of rape and fruit blossom everywhere and it is too cold for the bees to fly. The one and only way to prevent swarming is to have a rigorous routine check of the brood combs every seven or eight days. I say rigorous because the main fault with beginners is that they are not careful enough. Some cells are well hidden and you only have to miss one and the swarm is away. If you miss a three day old egg in a queen cup (very easily done) the bees might be away before the next check. Combs must be shaken or brushed clear of bees. If you intend using the cells for increase you must brush, not shake. The advice to cut out all cells might well be followed the first time round if things have caught you unprepared. However, repeated cutting out is useless. The queen will be laying few eggs when you want a lot and the bees will be working half-heartedly. I must admit to being puzzled about the advice to split. Is it because nectar flows in America are longer and richer than here? If I split a colony to prevent swarming by the time they had built up to strength the season would be over. Over the years many beekeepers have gone into print with their method of swarm control. I use a variation of a system first put forward by George Demaree, a respected American beekeeper, in 1884. Now 112 years old, I think it is still the best. Full details will be found in any good bee book. An afterthought. Is it swarming or supersedure? If the stock is a poor one and there are a few cells at the same level of development, it is supersedure. If the stock is strong and thriving why should the bees want to supersede? S H P _________________________________________________________________ Sid Pullinger Email : [log in to unmask] 36, Grange Rd Compuserve: [log in to unmask] Alresford Hants SO24 9HF England