" ... on warm days, the condensation ice melts and runs to the floor." In a well ventilated hive you do not see the accumulation of ice seen here: http://www.honeybeeworld.com/diary/images/2009/DSCF5482_small.JPG The point made about same size top and bottom entrances is well taken. I watch internal hive temperatures with a thermometer and check for condensation through a plexiglas inner cover on an observation hive. I never see the kind of ice accumulation seen in the picture referenced above and would feel the need to change my ventilation and insulation arrangements if I did. If you've got condensation ice melting and running down to the floor on warm days then you have ice formation encapsulating dead bees and hive debris on the floor on subsequent cold days ... which then thaws to create an unhealthy moldy mess during the days of late winter. Not an optimal situation you would think. Another insulating idea is shown here: http://www.photoshop.com/users/jeff_hills/albums/395e701c6f654af1ac5a22642ff673e2/view#b6fb7a911ae54f36b9c87df4ec4fee3c Two inch styrofoam insulation cut to 20" long by 8" high gives you 12 pieces out of a 2' X 8' insulating board. Held in place with inexpensive adjustable-length straps from strapworks.com. These straps also eliminate the need for rocks or bricks on top of the hive. Same 2" styrofoam cut to fit the inside of the cover with a lamination of coroplast to prevent chewing. Cover insulation stays on year 'round to prevent the metal skin of the top of the cover from overheating the bees in the summer. Jeff Hills Dorset, VT *********************************************** The BEE-L mailing list is powered by L-Soft's renowned LISTSERV(R) list management software. For more information, go to: http://www.lsoft.com/LISTSERV-powered.html Guidelines for posting to BEE-L can be found at: http://honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm