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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

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From:
George Fielder <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Tue, 21 Aug 2001 22:26:46 EDT
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Hi Kyle and all
Enjoyed this recent discussion and think that most points have been covered
but will add some small items.  First, I have kept bees just east of Toronto,
Ontario, Canada since 1981 (and still so much to learn I too am a newbie or
is it new bee?).  I have Italians but many are mongrel stock augmented by
swarms.

The most important insulation is in the roof of the hive.  I use foam above
the inner cover or 1 to 4 pieces of discarded floor carpet.  Bees and ants
destroy foam so it should be enclosed in wood.

I use an upper as well as a lower entrance, both about 3/8 inches by 3.5
inches.  Upper entrances were studied in Quebec and found to increase
survival.  I think perhaps the biggest reason is because it reduces the
moisture condensation (no matter where the moisture comes from).  It is best
to have the upper and lower entrances on the same side of the hive to reduce
the wind gales blowing right through the hive.  I also find that a wind
baffle in front of the entrances (3/8 to 1/2 inches away) works well too.  I
am struck with the comment of a slanted cover over the lower entrance.  I had
been using a horizontal strip above the entrance as a snow shield and a
vertical underneath for the wind baffle.

Yes I often read that feral colonies do not have upper entrances.  Offsetting
this, I think, is the observation that most ferals do not have flat ceilings
so condensation drains down the walls rather than drip from the ceiling.  I
would assume that colonies in trees have a huge insulation factor in the
roof, even more than 2 inches of Styrofoam.

I have read repeatedly about the pros and cons of insulation around the walls
of the hives.  I would point out that one benefit of insulation that was not
mentioned is that, with insulation, the hive chills of slower in the evenings
after a warm sunny day in midwinter.  This allows the bees to reform the
cluster with fewer getting stranded.  I have found wrapping most significant
with weaker hives and/or deteriorating boxes with knot (or rot) holes through
which the wind penetrates.  In sound boxes, a strong colony that has had time
to re-propolize the hive joints since the last intrusion simply does not need
to be wrapped.  Still I wrap most - *just in case*.  I have used tarpaper
wrap stuffed with leaves, Styrofoam and carpet and find no improvement over
those simply wrapped or with nothing other than their sound boxes and perhaps
roof insulation.  I also use the western cardboard boxes that speed up the
operation.  Many of these are 12 years old now.

For those who doubt the killing effect of condensation drips, I would mention
that midwinter one year my landlord called to say that two of my hives had
been knocker over.  Since it was around minus 28 degrees F., I knew there was
little hope but went right away to see what I could save.  The bees were all
dead. I just righted the hives to weather proof the wood until spring allowed
me to get a vehicle in.  In one hive in particular I noticed that clumps of
bees were frozen in ice.  The ice had stuck the frames together over the bee
carcasses.  It was a sorry site and I did not do much investigation but do
remember the ice had horizontal streaks that would be vertical in the hives
usual position.  In places it resembled icicles though just a single drop
wide.  Obviously the ice had formed before the hives were knocked over.  In
following winters i sometimes checked under the upper cover and found water
above the inner covers where the covers of the feeder holes did not fit well
and I had not used much roof insulation.

Kyle, Feed your bees well, ensure the hive seams are airtight and I would
suggest you use a good roof insulation under the outer cover.  And good luck
with your new hobby.

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