Hello All,
There has been some talk on the problems with the use of Bee Go/Honey Robber
for removing bees from supers.  I prefer Honey Robber because it has the
fruit smell added to "cut" the odor.  This may not work as well as the
straight product but I can live with that.  I have had good success using
this product.  Obviously, it works best on a warm sunny day, but we don't
always get that.  The trick in using this product on any day is to ensure
that the fume board (FB) is warm.  I noticed this when pulling honey from
colonies that were in partial shade.  It never seemed to work as well in
these areas regardless of the temperature.  I don't know what types of fume
boards are out there but the one I use is a simple frame covered with felt
and backed by sheet metal.  For my system the sheet metal is important.  I
store these in black trash bags.  I use two FBs at a time.

As soon as I arrive at the apiary I place the boards, still in the black
bag, in direct sunlight.  This will warm them up a bit.  I will then prepare
the colonies.  I smoke two of  the colonies lightly and  take the covers
off.  I will add Bee Go to the FB as needed.  I just sprinkle a small amount
criss-crossing the surface, making sure there is a good amount near the
edges.  The most difficult bees to remove seem to be found on the sides of
the supers.  I place one FB on the top of each colony, wait a few minutes
and begin removing supers alternating between colonies.  In the time it
takes me to remove the super and place it on the truck the next one is ready
on the alternate colony.  If I can get one of my children to help, their job
is to place the FB back on as soon as the super is removed.  This really
speeds up the process and removes almost all of the bees.  I also place
covers on the removed supers. Some remaining bees will move up to these.
 They can be shaken off before leaving.  If there are any left when I return
home, I will blow them out before taking them into the honey house.

I noticed that some apiaries were consistently harder to work than others.
 These were somewhat shaded or being worked at the end of the day.  That's
when I realized it was the more important for the FB to be warm than the
actual outside temperature. If the board gets cold it should be warmed up.
 The chemical must vaporize to work properly.  On moderately sunny days I
will place the black trash bag on top of the FB.  In shady spots on sunny
days you can place it back in the sun for a while.  However there are areas
when this just won't work.  You could place a warm smoker on the FB, it
helps but not a lot.  What is needed is a portable heating device.  I have
found that a small propane torch works great.  You need one with an
automatic igniter.  This is important because it allows one hand operation,
is much more efficient, and keeps you from leaving the torch burning because
"constant relighting is a bother".  Safety First!  You only need to pass the
flame over the METAL covered FB a few seconds  to warm it up.  It should
never get so hot that it can't be touched with a bare hand.  Please be
careful and take your time.  We don't need any fires or burned beekeepers.
Don't just throw the torch on the ground.  Having a small metal bucket to
place the torch in when not using is a good idea and also some water (which
you should have with you anyway).   This should not become the primary
method of heating the FB.  Use the sun whenever you can.

I have had better success using fume boards than any other method.  The bees
don't tend to become very upset as I have found when using a blower.  Last
year while using fume boards and being assisted by my daughter we did
experience one problem.  We were pulling supers and the boards were working
very well.  I would pull and she would replace the FB.  On one colony I took
the last super and went to the truck.  She didn't notice it was the last and
placed the FB on the hive body.  It didn't take too long before half the
colony was hanging on the outside.  The board was removed and they retreated
in a few minutes.  I don't like stressing them like that but they seemed ok
by the time we left.  This shows that FBs do work.

There is one other problem that could arise unless proper precautions.  If
you wish to remain an accepted member of the family, NEVER bring the fume
boards in the house.  Once I left them in the truck when it needed service.
 The garage called and wanted to know what was the "horrible smell" from my
truck and when would it be gone.

Ron Bogansky
Kutztown, (eastern) PA,  USA