Thank you.
----------
> From: Dave Green, Eastern Pollinator Newsletter <[log in to unmask]>
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: Re: Cleaning used equipment
> Date: Monday, February 10, 1997 7:19 AM
>
> In a message dated 97-02-06 14:18:12 EST, [log in to unmask] (aarcher)
writes:
>
> << What is an appropriate method of cleaning up the hive bodies and
supers
>  insuring that I don't spread disease to my new package bees?  Since we
are
>  limited in re$ources here and about 2 hours from the nearest village,
>  chemicals (which I'm not too fond of anyway) are not easy to find and
>  acquire.  I live in a riparian area on the Gila river and am cautious of
>  any unnatural residues which chemicals can leave behind.  I've heard
fire
>  can be used effectively to remove most disease problems, but is there a
>  specific way to use fire reasonably.  e.g.- Can I hold and rotate the
>  equipment over an open flame to sterilize?  Is there a minimum time or
>  minimum heat requirement to do the job?  What about using solar heating
in
>  or under plastic sheeting?  Would temperatures reach a high enough
level?
>  How long would be required to do the job thouroughly? >>
>
>     If the equipment was known to not have American foulbrood, I'd just
use
> it. Be sure to use a couple preventative treatments of terramycin each
year,
> and watch for any problems with AFB.
>
>     If you know it did, or if you aren't sure, fire is a good idea.
Solar
> heat would not kill foulbrood spores.
>
>    You might keep in mind that fouldbrood spores are everywhere, and bees
> normally resist the infection, unless they are genetically weak, or there
is
> an overwhelming source of infection.  The unwashed jar of honey tossed
into
> the dumpster has plenty of spores.  Your efforts to sanitize are used to
> reduce the exposure.  You cannot remove every spore.
>
>     Commercial beekeepers have a quick and simple way to char supers.
Get a
> round pointed shovel and a flat workspace away from anything that could
catch
> fire, such as a concrete or asphalt pad.  Scrape or knock off any
propolis or
> burr comb that is obvious.  Stack up the supers no higher than you can
reach,
> and put a flat piece of disposable plywood over the top, except leave a
tiny
> crack.  You have created a chimney.  Have some water buckets or a fire
> extinguisher handy by, just in case.
>
>    Now drop a paper towel, soaked with gas down your chimney, and follow
with
> a lighted match.  Be careful!      If you are looking down when it
ignites,
> you won't have any eyebrows, or worse.
>
>    Take the shovel tip and wedge it under the bottom super corner.  You
can
> lift it up slightly to let in air, and really get the fire going. Set it
down
> and the fire dies back. (With the shovel) move the top carefully back to
> close off the top, and the fire will go out.
>
>    It's easy and quick.  You can use the shovel created draft to burn
them
> just enough to char off the wax and propolis from the interior, but not
burn
> through the boxes.
>
>    If they fall, or you accidently knock off the cover, you'll have wood
> igniting, and you'll probably burn through some boxes, so a little
finesse is
> required, but it's not hard.
>
>    The slow way, more expensive, and just as risky, is to use a propane
torch
> to clean them up.  You'll have to scorch all inner surfaces. This is
outdoor
> activity.  Don't try this in your garage or warehouse.
>
> [log in to unmask]    Dave Green,  PO Box 1200,  Hemingway,  SC
> 29554        (Dave & Jan's Pollination Service,  Pot o'Gold Honey Co.)
>
> Practical Pollination Home Page            Dave & Janice Green
> http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html
>
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