> Note the curved inner surface of the handhold.  Dead give-away.
> The shape of the handhold itself shows that the saw bade is
> rotated through 90 degrees, from parallel to the surface of
> the wood, down to perpendicular with the surface of the wood.


Although scooped handholds can be formed as described above, any made by
this method will bear only a slight resemblance to the commercially
produced scooped handholds we all love and admire.  Using a saw blade as
described, in my experience tends to make an uneven, rough surface, and,
regardless of the saw radius, a very short, odd-looking handhold.

When we were making scooped handholds, we used a butterfly cutter and a
jig that allowed a plunge cut, and which also allowed moving the board
about two inches lengthwise (inside restraints) and back, after the
plunge was made, to give a longer, more comfortable, and more
professional-looking handhold.

Rounded profile butterfly cutters can be purchased -- or ordered --  in
various widths at any good specialty tool shop.  They are normally used
for making mouldings and decorative trim.  (Of course, I learned that
after we had our own special profile cutters made by a saw-sharpening
shop).

For that matter, though, the only practical advantage of the scoop --
and this advantage is slight -- over a simple 7/8" dado groove is that
water willl not sit in the scooped groove, and thus not rot or split the
wood, and, of course, they look a bit fancier.  That having been said,
though, a simple dado cut is cheaper, simpler, and just as useful.
Butterflys dull very easily and are expensive to sharpen.  A dado stays
sharp longer and is less likely to burn or chip if the plunge is made
too quickly or showly.   A lot of equipment in commercial and hobby use
has just dado handholes, and rabbetted joints.  Such boxes work every
bit as well, and last just as long as the box-cornered supers with
scooped handholes, or longer. Some of us even prefer them.

For those who are inexperienced wood workers, please note: It is much
easier and safer to make the plunge after the box is assembled, rather
than to try to put a groove in an unattached board.  It is also easier
to cut handholes upside down.   Oooopps!

No matter how they are accomplished, plunge cuts can be very dangerous.
Boards and boxes can instantly -- without any warning --  become
high-speed projectiles, that leave the work surface in the blink of an
eye, and leave a naked spinning blade exposed.  NEVER push towards a
blade with any body part you wish to keep long-term.

Bee careful out there.

allen
http://www.honeybeeworld.com

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