On Thu, 17 Feb 1994, Richard Spear wrote:
 
>
> jerry -
>
> could you explain using a spray water bottle? i live and work a hive in a
> california canyon, and smoking is always a problem because of fire
> danger.
>
>  regards, richard
 
Richard, as Jim Hoyt commented this works best on warm days, and I
wouldn't use it on cool, cold, or damp days - if for no other reason than
to not stress the bees.
 
Although many people use a little sugar, I am not convinced that it is
needed.  Too much and the bees get stuck together.  We found that sugar
spray can kill bees if they get too gunky.
 
My impression is that plain water works just as well, especially when
working nucleus colonies or mini-hives.  I gently lift the lid and spritz
anyone sticking their head out.  If they start to buzz around, hit them
again.  The secret is to catch them on the combs -- once they are in the
air, not much can be done.
 
My guess is that a wet bee (don't soak them, just mist them) is a little
less able to fly and probably distracted by the "freak" rain inside the
hive.  Anyway, they often drop down the combs just as they do when
exposed to a little smoke.
 
At times I also use air to work bees.
 
Beekeepers often blow bees out of
supers, but gentler puffs of air can be use to move bees around.  If I
find a pile of bees under which I suspect the queen is hiding (not uncommon on a cool or
overcast day in mid-summer when the bees are all home in the box and
about five layers deep on the frames), I simply blow through my lips and
the pile will slowly open up.
 
Don't blow too hard, that seems like an open invitation to make a rapid
dash towards you and may result in a nasty sting on the lip or nose.
 
As per clothing.  Most of you know not to wear suede gloves.  Apparently
bees live by the rule "If it is fuzzy or dark, sting it".
 
A handy tip - need an extra coverall or two for visitors?   Go get a few
DISPOSABLE TYVEC COVERALLS from your local asbestos remover.  They work
great and are cheap and light.  Some of my students prefer them over
conventional coveralls.  Don't expect to be able to do heavy work in them
such as pullling honey supers - they will tear too easily.  But for
obervation, visits, inspections, they work fine.  Another advantage -
they are completely sealed, no open vents, etc.
 
To keep from tearing out the feet on gravel or rough terrain (many of our
yards have cactus), make a Duct Tape sole.
 
In general, buy one or two sizes larger than you usually wear.  I think
these things must be made in Asia, the crotch is always too short and
rips out when you bend over unless you get a large size.
 
Firms that handle hazardous wastes also have these suits.  I imagine any
of you associated with a University will find that your Physical Plant
gets these suits, since asbestos insulation is common in old heating
plants, tunnels, around pipes, etc.
 
Happy Bee Busting
 
Jerry
 
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Univ. of MT, USA