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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

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Subject:
From:
Jerry Bromenshenk <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Sun, 30 Mar 2014 21:19:23 -0400
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Communication is key.  And the dust problem isn't simply wind, it's dust on bloom in fields (weeds, ground cover) being planted.  Since dust borne materials tend to settle quickly, unless the beeyard is against the fence line of the field, I'd be more concerned about bees foraging bloom in fields during and after planting then dust drifting over the apiary.

Now, if you're serious about documenting - put dead bee traps on the ground in front of your  hives.  Check, collect, count, and freeze the bees  found in the traps over a set period of time -( e.g., 24/48/72/96 hrs) BEFORE, DURING, and AFTER PLANTING.    It's not too important how long the trap interval (#days), as long as you are consistent about trap size and sample interval.  It is critical to sample bees for same interval BEFORE planting - so you can establish normal rate of loss (remember, some bees die every day of old age).  Then sample during Planting (should be worst case exposure).  The Post-Sampling (1/2/3 weeks out), again your choice, will show if there are any lingering effects in terms of adult bee mortality.

Traps are generally simple wooden frames (square or rectangular), with a floor (plywood, plastic, screening, even a sheet) so that the bees can be easily seen and counted and so dead bees don't end up in the dirt.  If you've birds or foxes or skunks, you may want a course mesh screen over top to keep them out.  Something on the order of 1x4's for the sides, width equal to that of hive (if on pallets), wider is better, and 3-4 ft long.  Again, the idea is to collect the dead bees tossed out the front, and the staggering bees having trouble getting home.  Only critical issue, each trap should be same dimensions, etc. as every other trap.

If you do this, you take the opinion out of the equation, will get actual numbers.  Might be informative to all.  Be sure to take photos of each trap and the dead bees in it, for each hive and each interval (gives you an obvious record).  If you see a 'kill', use disposable gloves, pick up bees, put in new Zip Lock bags, freeze, and send to lab (state or Gastonia).

If you are sure you  are going to see a problem, best to have someone who isn't a beekeeper or grower check the traps, collect samples.  This could be a state employee, but a retired person, high school or college student, etc. better than you alone.  That keeps everyone honest.

Jerry


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