Hello All,
The net is full of opinions on nosema ceranae. in certain areas the issue 
seems a minor problem. However in other areas beekeepers are still trying to 
get a handle on the problem. The point I am trying to make is just because 
you read an article ( like the one posted  saying nosema is not an issue of 
concern you should still keep a sharp eye on your bees once you have 
confirmed nosema ceranae has either displaced nosema apis in your bees or 
both nosema are present.
From my research Spain ( which has around the same number of hives as the 
U,S. but in a much smaller area) has had the most nosema ceranae problems. I 
doubt U.S. researchers when asked would discount the problems seen in Spain 
as a minor issue. In areas of the U.S. many U.S. beekeepers have fought 
similar battles. I am one of those beekeepers.  So far I have seen only a 
few hives with nosema ceranae issues this spring. A few of these hives I 
removed all frames but the frames the bees were on and replaced with frames 
free of nosema spores and the hives condition improved.

Because of the lack of staining many hobby beekeepers in our area might 
never suspect N. ceranae as the cause of their hive loss last winter.

As the hobby beekeepers (99% 0f beekeepers in the state) are waking up and 
making the first checks of their hives I am moving hives on to summer 
locations. The winter deadouts have new bees with queens, Varroa treatments 
done, nosema treatments done and will super these hives in 2-4 weeks.
We have fought the mud this spring. I have a constant problem with getting 
stuck. Working bees in light rain is the norm.

"Many of the  biggest failures in beekeeping can be in many cases directly 
related to procrastination"
 Bob Harrison

> Chris said:
>The Spanish studies suggest that it doesn't cause staining in the hive;

What I see is when nosema ceranae is the only or high percent of nosema you 
see no staining. When both nosema are present or mostly nosema apis some 
staining is present and mostly on the top bars of the lower box.

Last year we ( myself and other beekeepers which had serious nosema ceranae 
issues last season) drenched to control ( and in some cases up to four 
times) but this year i went back to feeding at the normal rate in feed.
I have however made two changes which I feel have helped.
1. I fed fumigillin to the over wintered hives like last year but I also am 
feeding fumigillin to the splits from those hives ( which I did not do last 
spring and had serious nosema ceranae issues resulting in drenching to save 
the splits) .
2.This spring we went frame by frame through the deadouts and misted a very 
light clorox solution  on the frames and boxes ( as per the article by Jerry 
Brumenshenk in ABJ) . Jerry suggested that misting a light clorox solution 
( dissipates rapidly) was as effective as using acetic acid to kill nosema 
ceranae spores which can remain viable for a very long time in brood comb 
stored in a cool dark area.

I use inside feeders in spring and unlike last spring the splits are making 
feed disappear quickly now. Bees unable to use or even move and store feed 
is a sign of nosema ceranae. The next sign is a large number of bees dead in 
the inside feeder. The last sign and a sign which has surprised many 
researchers I have spoke with is a turning of the syrup a dark ( almost 
black color). Once I find the black feed the hive is usually in the last 
stages of dying from nosema cerane. I remove this feed and replace the 
feeder with a clean feeder with new syrup. I wash the old feeder out and 
mist with a clorox solution before reusing on the bees.

frames misted with a clorox solution are aired for weeks before placement on 
the bees however I have heard of beekeepers misting and using the next day 
without problems.

I post only to help other beekeepers. We have beekeepers in the Midwestern 
beekeepers which have misted a light clorox solution on their deadouts for 
decades. I personally have only done this spring. The bees have produced 
several brood cycles on these frames without problems.

bob

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