> Do you have any experience with using Bee-Quick to
> drive bees out of structures or trees?

A number of beekeepers and a few of the more enlightened
pest control companies use Bee-Quick to do this, but 
"product liability" concerns make these applications
something that we cannot openly promote.  It is not 
beekeepers that are the concern here, as we beekeepers 
inherently "assume a great deal of risk".  It is the 
uninformed homeowner who stumbles upon the website, 
orders the product from a retailer, and approaches an 
entrenched AHB colony armed with nothing more than a 
bottle of Bee-Quick that concerns the legal beagles.

One of the better methods involves the use of a shop-vac,
a bee-vac, or a leaf blower.  The hose is plugged into
the exhaust port of the shop-vac or bee-vac, so they are 
blowing air through the hose.  Soak a thin cloth with 
Bee-Quick, and rubber-band it over the end of the hose. 
Using a hole saw, cut a hole large enough for the end of 
the hose at the bottom or top of the cavity opposite the 
entrance.  Blow, re-apply as needed, repeat.

Small test holes may be required to find the actual extent 
of the cavity, but I like using a non-contact infra-red 
"spot" thermometer to detect the waste heat of the colony, 
best done in the evening, when surface temps are lower, 
and the difference is more obvious.  For stud walls, a
stud finder is also a big help.  I use both the electronic
and the old-fashioned magnetic types.

That said, Bee-Quick is not going to remove comb, and the
comb, brood, and stores are going to make a mess if left
inside the walls of any inhabited structure.  I guess it
does make the eventual opening up and comb removal process 
easier, as there are far fewer bees (if any) in the wall.

When dealing with trees, the recipe of a ladder, a
chainsaw, and a colony of annoyed bees sounds like the
start of a Darwin Award story, so once again, removing
the bulk of the bees before cutting might make things
less problematic.

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