Allen Dick has been using foam based hives for a while. He likes them. He doesn't have to do winter wrapping which is good. He also drills a hole in each box and uses a plug to open or close the hole for ventilation as required. He found they could become too wet unless vented. If you search his web site you can review his real life experiences. He comments on construction, sturdiness, and repair techniques.

Seeley found that the preferred hive volume for a swarm was about the same size as a Langstroth std box. I am not sure if he looked at configuration of the volume. People have been having great success with 4x4 double nucs. Side by side 4 frames with a 4 frame box on top. I had success last year with 4x4x4 double nucs and have several more set up for this winter. I vent the top with a 1" by 3/8" entrance. They get wrapped and an insulation pillow on top between the inner and outer cover. In spring when brooding gears up and heat conservation is important I close off the top entrance.

Do hive thermal properties need to be improved? Every fall most northern beekeepers add a wrap and/or insulation, so I would say yes. 

Forming a cluster is an activity meant to reduce energy consumption. It allows the bees to create a smaller pocket that is heated to brood rearing temperatures. I can't see clustering costing more then it saves. If a hive is heated to prevent clustering then the bees become too active. They run out of stores before they run out of winter. Not all bees in a cluster are generating heat. Most are lined up like feathers on a duck.

On a different tack. There are commercial beekeepers that move their bees inside for the winter. The target temperature is +5c. This provides for a loose cluster. Winter feed requirements are about 1/2. Since most cooling is provided by cold dry Canadian air the inside RH can be a problem. They have leaned what to target for RH and devise different techniques to add moisture. 

Regards Peter

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