Perhaps this reader question from a message board posting, and the response,
would be of interest to all:
>I have 55 acres of watermelons. How many hives
should I have? Where should they be placed? Last year my dad and I had a
late crop with poor pollination. I would like to do things right this year.
The standard recommendation for vine crops is one hive per acre for
standard varieties, and three for seedless watermelon hybrids, though many
local extension folks still quote old recommendations of lesser rates.
The average actual stocking rate in SC is about one hive on three acres.
That depends on the presence of some wild pollinators, which may or may not
be present. I just placed bees yesterday on a late melon and cantaoupe field
at a rate of 2 hives per acre, which I think is a very good idea, since hot
weather limits the hours bees can work.
I've seen a definite relationship between placement of bees and long range
survival of growers. Cucumbers growers who don't place bees, or skimp on
placement, are no longer cucumber growers; some are no longer farmers. I've
got one older farmer who has always skimped and complained a lot that cukes
don't make money. This year he balked at a price increase, and did not place
any bees. I doubt he will grow cukes next season. If he doesn't quit, the
buyer is apt to cut him off. It costs them too much in culling.
The ones who are consciencious about bees, are usually doing everything
else better too. They tend to increase acreage each year, with harvest labor
being the primary limitation.
Well pollinated melons will ripen faster than poorly pollinated ones, and
very poorly pollinated melons will never fully ripen. The shape of the melon
is a clue, since areas of poor pollination within the fruit do not grow well,
so this can lead to flat spots and gourd shapes. White seeds are diagnostic
on standard varieties. 50% white seeds guarantees a poor quality melon.
Place bees in groups of 12-24 near the fields. There is no need to
scatter them further; it will be difficult for the beekeeper to provide
proper care if they are scattered too much. I have done a lot of checking and
found that adequate numbers of bees forage cucurbits up to about .6 mile. The
first foraging is close to the hive each day, but within an hour after
commencement, there are more bees at .3 mile than there are within a couple
hundred yards of the hives. (The pollen becomes used up, and the bees rapidly
scatter further, seeking fresh sources of pollen.)
If you anticipate hot weather, make sure the bees have shade at least part
of the day (I prefer afternoon shade where possible). Also be sure they have
a source of clean water, and make sure there is no pesticide contaminated
water available to them.
Think about the site(s) with a little common sense. Is it accessible to
the beekeeper, or does he have to pass through a mudhole after rain? Is it
too close to homes, without intervening vegetation barriers? (I've placed
bees 100 yards from a house with a barrier hedgerow, with no problems; that
is too close if it is an open area.) Is the spot safe from wildfire?
Make sure hives are on pallets or stands of some sort. If not they will
absorb moisture during rainy spells and funguses run rampant. In the south,
termites and fire ants will also be serious problems for beehives on the
ground. An oak pallet will not stop termites or fire ants, but it delays
them quite a while, long enough for your needs.
Kids are sometimes a problem. If I have opportunity, I explain to the
kids why the bees are there (to make watermelons, not honey). I encourage
them to learn about the bees, and discourage them from molesting them. I
like to get them to watch from a moderate distance, explaining that quick
motions will attact stings, where they can see the bees returning with their
little pollen baskets full. I get high on watching the bees do their job,
and this usually transfers to kids, when they understand. Usually it works.
Good luck.
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Dave Green PO Box 1215, Hemingway, SC 29554
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