In message <[log in to unmask]>, [log in to unmask] writes
>Further, science as shown
>that
>bees descending from constant superseded queens are inferior, disease prone,
>and
>lose all of their genetic good qualities
The word constant is the key one here. But if you have a good genetic
pool of the drones, then supersedure can go along a good few years
without much inbreeding. Comments please, remembering we do have native
bees here with good diversity.
>a swarm totally destroys the financial
>return
>of a colony, so he requeens every fall to prevent swarming during a nectar
>flow,
This is a good method for a large scale operation and a lot of hive
movement. I prefer to select and replace from my own best strains,
bearing in mind that bees are native to my country and the local bee,
when selected for the best traits, produces well. So I am prepared to
examine regularly and replace poorer queens from over-wintered nucs or
use these colonies in the rearing process. With 50 hives it works and as
a sideliner I don't want to be moving my bees around in search of
pollination contracts or honey crops. In our weather, a proper
supersedure (one or 2 cells, well fed) is an advantage. As I mentioned
in another post, my best performing queen was 3 years old before she
made swarming preparations so she was split and her daughters are doing
fine. Like you, George, I get several times the average crop for the
hobbyist and I sell jars, comb and candles in the local shops and it is
asked for when not on the shelf.
>because YOUNG queens just don't swarm
I have been told 10:30:30:30 are typical % swarming for the 1st season
(from spring rearing to winter):2nd:3rd:4th seasons (the 4th season
amounts to 3 calendar years from rearing, hence the 4th season queen is
only 3 years old. What is the experience on the list? I'd like to get it
right for my students.
--
James Kilty
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