>In my experience, the winter cluster can do quite well in dry or somewhat
moist conditions as long as the humidity does not go above 100%, and that
can easily happen with ambient temperature fluctuations.

One of the best ways to learn about some concept is to look at the
extremes.  In your case, Allen, you experience the cold extreme of cold and
low humidity for bees, so I find your information very valuable.  (I am
curious however, about how one ever experiences a relative humidity above
100%  : )

>
> >The spring cluster is different.  When brood raising ramps up, the cluster
> is much more vulnerable to changes in temperature as well as humidity.  At
> this point, especially if the cluster is small and the bees are old, excess
> space and ventilation can be fatal or very limiting.


Can you expound upon the "excess space" problem?

>
> >Henry Pirker from the most northerly of Alberta beekeeping regions
> published a study years back called, "Steering Factor Humidity".  In it, he
> demonstrated that by controlling humidity, he could control the amount of
> brood in wintering clusters in his European-style bee house.


Pirker found that increasing humidity in the wintering house calmed the bees
and allowed more brood to be reared.  I've spoken to other Canadian indoor
winterers who also find benefit of giving water to the bees.  On the other
hand, Dennis Murrel's website has an interesting page on his observations of
a plexiglas-topped hive during winter.

In my wet, cool California winters, the insides of the hives can be
dripping.  I see less of it with screened bottoms.  However, I still haven't
made up my mind on screened bottoms--they have benefits and liabilities.

Has anyone seen any data on differences in colony performance (summer and
winter) with or without 1" vent holes in the face of each hive body (other
than the clear benefit during Canadian winters)?

Randy Oliver

Randy Oliver

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