At 06:35 AM 4/5/01 -0600, you wrote:
>I would greatly appreciate any suggestions for a good height for bee =
>stands.  There was some discussion  in August of 2000 on stands but =
>there have been no real comments about height.

I'm a hobby beekeeper and don't need to migrate my bees, but what I use
works well for me.

I use three cinder blocks, spaced evenly apart.  I place the cinder blocks
with the openings to the side.  This is less strong (not a problem), but
prevents termites from building tunnels up through the inside of the
blocks.  I slope the blocks slightly down to the south for water drainage.

On top of the blocks I put two 8' landscaping timbers (these are roughly 4"
X 6", and have preservative added).  I then place two hives on these,
placed towards the outside ends.  This leaves space in between to place
tools, smoker, new/removed supers, etc.  I leave just a little space on the
outside edges to place the inner cover propped against the side of the hive
and off the ground.  Wayward bees can find their way back into the hive
easily.  The hives hang over the front/back of the timbers a few inches,
but seem to be quite stable.

I also use a piece (4'x10') of old carpeting behind the hive as a weed
block so I have a nice place to stand while I work.

  +====+
  +====+                  +====+
  +====+                  +====+
  |    |                  |    |
  +====+                  +====+|
  |    |                  |    || < inner cover
  +====+                  +====+|
================================ < timbers
****           ****         **** < cinder
****           ****         ****   blocks

How high should it be?  As high as necessary and as low as
possible.  Higher means fewer weed problems and less rot due to ground
moisture.  Lower means it is easier to remove that highest super.  I have
not measured, but cinder blocks are slightly less that a foot high (less
the settling in to level them), plus another 4" for the timbers, so the
bottom board would sit about 15" above ground level.  I'm a tall guy, so
working height hasn't been a problem for me.

The down side?  It takes a little time to get the cinder blocks levelled so
that the landscaping timbers are parallel and hives don't wobble.  One can
only move one hive at a time (not a problem for me).

This setup would not help Camille's ant problem.

My two cent's worth.

Mike Churchill
Mike Churchill, Beginning Beekeeper | What's the buzz all about?
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